Gerry said i could.

good route, especially the gaston mantle..! sustained and teericky

the third is hard to clip, but dosnt detract from the rest. there are a few suss cracked blocks at the top so dont pull to hard on them.

thought harder then 20, especially when compared to the 21’s at stathams and mq

i reckon stout 21 for the onsight maybe 22? its way harder then your mortal wombat at mq

cheers

thanks rich i thought i might have been showing my age…. good route eh.

when you in town?

hey richard, its a tad easier than when i first bolted it. i cleaned off some flakey rock and found a few holds… as well as lost a few.

i hope none of the “suss” looking holds come off. the main one of concern below the 5th bolt was tested and seemed ok. the climb has been done without this hold for no change in grade so no big dramas if it comes off.

it is somewhat “teericky” though.

:->

gee whiz i haven’t had to work a 20 for a while. i’ll head out next weekend for the redpoint 🙂

Neil,

I am affraid I agree with Ed, Richard and Owen (as well as Kate), in that this is not a 20. The move directly over 2nd bolt is 22/23, the mantle is 22. The climb is definitely harder than Left Lateral… which is 21, I was talking to some more people in SQ on Sat and noone thinks this is a 20.

Abnother thing, the three drilled footholds at start are not necessary. I used to do this bit (what is now the start of TO) as a left variation start of LLPSW (to be honest it was easier than the direct start to LLPSW) and it used to be about a 20/21 lead. Now it is a far bit easier. I am sure punters could have done it in the original condition and it still would be a fair bit easier than the two cruxes of TO higher up. Pity.

Otherwise a good route.

The 2nd bolt would be better off 50cm to right I think. A less reachy clip then. A fixed hanger would be nice, the swinging splatter onto the ledge then avoided….and could be stick clipped as an option.

Also, I forgot to note that my comments re: the start apply to people like me, who are 6ft4in and have huge reach. For short people the start may well have been super hard, I would not know….anyway… It now makes me do LLPSW with the proper direct start….yuk, yuk…the smears….

i didnt find clipping the bolts especially difficult but the grade aint 20

i’d go for 22 as an onsight grade

How’s Nigel these days ?

Living 90mins from the blueys…endless suburban climbing… great seacliffs on your door step….girls…surfing….

…. and you’re still reading up about my Perth quarry climbs !

😛