New (?)route at Stathams
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Ang
Corner Porn 11m 15
About 10m left of Cornflake, just left of Get Your Hands Off My Bolts; a shallow cave/open corner crack with triangular overhang.
Bridge/straddle the thin corner crack (crux), up to dusty recess with some loose looking stuff under overhang. Exit left on to the sharp edge, head up broken arete and veer left on to ring bolt loweroffs of Hipster Crack/Quickie/Child’s Play.
Small and micro nuts, small to medium cams.
Angela Separovic, Richard Wainwright Jan 2010
Kyles
A pint for anyone who does it in the nude!
Ang
Free pint here I come!
Ross
I think you have done “Trog”, see p198 of guidebook.
Ang
This is a cut-and-paste of what I posted just over a week ago in the Climbing Talk section.
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What is this route?
Did an interesting trad lead on Sunday 10th at Stathams on a route I couldn’t quite place in my guide.
It is about 10m left of Cornflake, just left of Get Your Hands Off My Bolts; a shallow cave/open corner crack with triangular overhang. Bridge/straddle the thin corner crack, up to grotty recess under overhang, full of loose stuff and dirt. Exit left on to sharp edge and the broken arete, head up and slightly left on to ring bolt loweroffs of Hipster Crack/Quickie/Child’s Play.
Description sort of matches “Trog” but there is no topo to confirm. The next route right listed is “The Minidala”, which is described as being just right of Trog but on the topo is drawn to the left of the crack corner/overhang I climbed.
Feedback
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Not denying it could be Trog but the topo in the Perth Guide has a big fat shadow where Trog is, and in Gledhill’s 2008 mini-guide there is no route shown where I’m referring to. Pretty stiff climb for an 11.
Maybe Mr Adams & Co could set things straight?
Ross
From 2002 guidebook:
Trog 18m 11
Around the corner from Hipster Crack is a shallow cave. Bridge the groove of the cave. Break
out L to short wall to join the dirt exit of Hipster Crack. Michael Adams, John Watson & Co. early 70s
Whereas your description is:
Corner Porn 11m 15
About 10m left of Cornflake, just left of Get Your Hands Off My Bolts; a shallow cave/open corner crack with triangular overhang. Bridge/straddle the thin corner crack (crux), up to dusty recess with some loose looking stuff under overhang. Exit left on to the sharp edge, head up broken arete and veer left on to ring bolt loweroffs of Hipster Crack/Quickie/Child’s Play.
So both start in shallow cave, both start with bridging, both reach a roof, both exit it on left side and both finish at top of the Hipster Crack dirtfest. Of course the Adams route went to the top as there were no bolts then so it is a bit longer.
It’s Trog, sorry mate.
As for grades, gr 11 35years ago is probably about gr 15 today (consult “Marionette” and “Swiss Roll” in the Stirlings….). Those guys were hard men and my guess was did not travel East much so some local grades were a bit stiffer than Ewbank….we should fix some of that in new guide….Maybe we can shake hands on gr 13?
Ang
No need to apologise for something I already suspected 🙂 – I said something very similar in emails to Richard re it looking like Trog. I posted it more to get a response to my original question in Climbing Talk than to get the FA. Thought it pretty unlikely no one had previously done it. At least my grading was okay.
Ang
But grade 13 is a little low, given Cornflake is 16 and not that much harder, just slightly longer and cleaner. The gear isn’t fantastic lower down and someone looking for a low grade to start trad on would get a rude shock.
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