New route at Willys

This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 10 months ago by George.

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21 March 2006 at 12:00 AM #4743 Reply
George
Stormbringer 23m 21

Start 1m right of Inner Space. From the Limestone platform up through bulges passing 1 bolt to ledge. Then straight up past 2 bolts and natural gear to finish at the righthand end of the terrace.

3 bolts and natural gear.

G Firth, M Dempsey 20.03.06

A tricky start, leads to beautiful climbing up the steeper slightly featured middle section and a pleasant finish through the top bulge. 21 feels about right , but would love to see what everyone else thinks.
4 April 2006 at 12:00 AM #4744 Reply
Owen
I was going to get on it on sunday but it started pissing down… but it looks like a great route. Good job.
4 April 2006 at 12:00 AM #4745 Reply
Ben J
Climbed it on Sunday before seeing Owen. Quite moist so hard to gauge the grade as I was holding on to slippery rock heaps harder than usually necessary which made it quite pumpy. Could see a 21 with better friction. Nice route.
4 October 2006 at 12:00 AM #4746 Reply
Jon
21 seems a little stiff. Without any chalk on the holds it was very difficult to read the moves. I reckon at least 22.

I also did the recently rebolted 24 to right “The Spin of It” and had less trouble than Stormbringer. This climb could probably drop 1 or 2 grades.

The Boschman climb to the right – solid 25. It’s tough.
30 September 2009 at 12:00 AM #4747 Reply
Ross
Peter flashed “Stormbringer” and I seconded it with a hang on 3rd bolt. I recon it is harder than any 21 here (Stainless Steel, Dolphin Smiles)and would go with 22. Peter agreed. It would be a hard onsight without chalk showing the way (which Peter did have). We did not use any trad gear and just clipped the top ring on the climb to the right for the top section. A 3 star climb!
20 October 2009 at 12:00 AM #4748 Reply
George
Stormbringer 23m 22

Start 1m right of Inner Space. From the Limestone platform up through bulges passing 1 bolt to ledge. Then straight up past 2 bolts and natural gear to finish at the righthand end of the terrace.

3 bolts and natural gear.

G Firth, M Dempsey 20.03.06

A tricky start, leads to beautiful climbing up the steeper slightly featured middle section and a pleasant finish through the top bulge.

Great too see some people enjoying the climb. Just for the record the start doesnt go into the corner, but stays on the face and edge.
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