new shoe question
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- This topic has 11 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 19 years, 3 months ago by
Jon.
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Jon
Hey all – fairly new to the sport but am loving it. Just picked up a pair of Mad Rock – Flashes and on advice of the sales person got a fairly tight fit. I understand all rock shoes are meant to be very tight but these are tight to the point of wearing the third toe knuckle on each foot raw after 1 session – is this normal ? do you just build up a callus / tape the affected toes?
Ross
Jon,
Yeah, it’s normal. I use bandaids to tape up any knuckles and other parts of foot that get hammered. It works very well.
Ross
Di
I reckon it’s not normal at all! I’ve been climbing for close on a decade and the Mad Rocks are the first pair of shoes out of about eight pairs to give me a callus (lump??) on a little toe. I love the performance from them so I suffer through it.
Anyone else found this with Mad Rocks?
Dinah
So you got sucked in like everyone else!
Sales people always advocate tighter than tight shoes but then they don’t have to wear them. I have shoes that are slightly too small and others that fit but are nearly always uncomfortable. On the other hand I know someone who wears explorer socks under his old cracked shoes but climbs stuff some others wouldn’t.
Yes they do need to be snug but not that snug they are killing the foot. Generally for multipitch climbing something a bit more comfortable helps as you have to wear and climb in them for hours at a time. For sport climbing a snug fit is best.
The most important thing is that the shoe fits the shape of the foot so even if it is tight it is not fighting the foot so much. Climbing shoes vary greatly in their overall shape.
Jon
Thanks for the replies guys.
I admit it was my own fault – looking through my normal shoes I range from mostly a 10 to a 10 1/2 to even an 11 in 1 pair. I didn’t do my homework before buying the shoes to find out what corresponding climbing size they were.. as it ends up I bought an equivalent 9 1/2.
The sales person I dealt with was very friendly and it was obvious (to me at least) that they knew a lot about climbing. After explaining to them that it was my first pair of shoes they very strongly pushed me toward this pair and size which I purchased in the end. Standing and walking around in a shop for 10 min is very different to clambering indoor for a few hours as I found out.
Up on the wall they seem ok and I didn’t think about the sore toes to much but taking them off and putting them on with the two worn raw knuckles – ouch.
So now I am going to tape the two affected toes and climb tonight and see how I go. If it is simply too painful I guess I will have to try to sell them and go up a few sizes.
Di
Actually Jon it sounds like you’ve got a decent size- once they break in a bit you’ll appreciate the snug fit. Shoes that are too big and get sloppy end up frustrating you when your feet don’t stay put on small holds.
It’s not uncommon to take your shoes off in between climbs at first. Of course if you climb twice a week and after a month you still can’t bear the pain, then you have a problem- but if they’re not sore to climb in, you’re doing well.
Jon
Hi Di,
I’ve been climbing lately every second night so hopefully with a bit of persistance the shoes will break in and reach that sweet spot for me and my affected toes will toughen up 🙂 A bit of tape tonight should help things out.
Danny
I have a pair of these myself. Trust me they will get nice and comfort for you. I rate them as a great shoe for the gym.
Danny
Poor grammar above 🙂
Rod
Vs normal shoe size: big wall multi pitch routes I’m a half to 1 shoe size lower in climbing shoes; 1 pitch sport routes I’m 1 and a half sizes smaller (all Aussie sizings). Break in time varies significantly by brand. I’m in La Sportiva shoes and count one year of climbing 2 to 5 times a week which can be speeded up by adding a bit of water to the inside of the shoes early on. Thereafter, get resoles for as long as you can string the things out but after 2 years mine become like chemical weapons.
Kris
I used to be one of those salesman who apparently never have to wear them. YES they should be tight in order for you to gain the most friction possible on tiny footers. You can do all the things everyone else is suggesting, but be assured Mad Rock shoes do stretch considerably. Yes I do climb and have climbed for over ten years. If all else fails try drinking a can of Toughen Up and deal with a bit of discomfort!!
It all depends on how serious you want to become with climbing.
Jon
Just to let you all know after climbing for 2 months 4-5 nights at the gym I am loving these shoes. I still tape 2 of my my toes as they rub a little but they have really moulded to my feet and feel great 🙂 I actually went back and thanked the sales person 🙂
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