Home Forums Bolting No bolting zones?

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  • #4202 Reply
    Emil
    Guest

    I have done some research following conversations with fellow ironmongers to figure out where in WA the placement of bolts is discouraged. So far ive not turned up a lot. Other than “history” ive not really figured out why some of these areas exist.

    The areas that i have am aware may be “no new bolts zones” are:

    * Exclusion zone on Albany environs coastline

    * Nyts wilderness (near walpole)

    * Bluff knoll (or is that all stirlings?)

    Firstly, can anyone clarify where the “no new bolts zones” are?

    if it is a wilderness area (like nyts) is hand-drilling allowed?

    if indeed they do exist, is there a process of review to relax or discontinue the bans?

    cheers em

    #4203 Reply
    Anon
    Member

    Who’s a naughty boy…

    #4204 Reply
    Di
    Member

    Hi Emil, has CALM been of any help with this information? Back in the Stupid Country (US) no-bolt-zones were generally decreed as such by the government so CALM would be the logical ‘enforcer’ here I’d guess.

    But you know that unless you’re hand-drilling your bolts on lead you’re not a real hard man . . . ho ho ho . . . .

    #4205 Reply
    Toc
    Member

    Hi all,

    These weren’t decreed by CALM though I believe CALM were involved in the discussions. They were areas set aside for people who want to climb without finding bolts, that the other sort of hard persons could test their mettle on. No disparagement of anybody intended. It has just been suggested to me we put a map on the website. I don’t know all that much about it, but I can point you at some people who do if you need to know stuff right away now.

    Cheers,

    Toc.

    #4206 Reply
    Neil
    Member

    Shane’s guides have a good map of the Adventure Climbing Zone (i.e no NEW bolting – with catches!)

    There’s lots of info on the Adventure Climbing Zone in old Western Climbers / Redpoint Magazines. A couple of years ago Ross proposed to allow bolting at some areas. There was a survey of Perth and Albany climbers. As a result Ross proposed that new bolting be permitted in a few areas. AFAIK the whole thing is a voluntary agreement between CALM / CAWA and the Albany Climbers (SCUM or whatever they call themselves). The only exception maybe Nyts where I think CALM have requested no more bolting is done.

    I’ll have a sticky beak in my old mags and see what I can dig up……

    #4207 Reply
    Emil
    Member

    ….and i understand the reason for no bolts. i’ll be as trad as the next punter when it comes to a route that will go on gear.

    Just that creating an all out ban on bolts on some of the best and(/or) longest crags, we have severely limited the scope of routes to be climbed in a state that started with a shortage of good lines. as a local hardman exclaimed “heck there are only say, 300 more routes to go on bluff knoll”

    Before anyone suggests, i am not advocating sterilsed routes for the baggy pant hoards. Even with a few well placed bolts, you can be assured the number of folks venturing further than the usual haunts will be limited.

    #4208 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    Hi Emil, Ross here, I’m living and climbing in the Middle East now, in Oman. Isn’t the internet great…. A few years ago I was having discussions with Albany climbers, on behalf of CAWA, to see what areas should be allowed for bolting. The consensus from Albany was that some areas within the no bolting zone can have bolting, but then we were waiting for CALM approval. This is because the bolting is a part of management plans for those areas. CALM approval (John Watson was the Albany CALM bosss then) was not coming, they were busy with fires at the time, and I lost interest in the issue. So as far as I know the coast between Albany and mermaid Pt is still off bolting and the only bolts that are there are those placed in the pre-no bolting days. (It was those bolts that lead to the zone being declared, as Perth climbers have thus upset the locals, as I understand it, the Redpoints in the State Library have all the background on this – the State Library in Northbridge should have full suite of all Redpoints and Western Climbers…..I gave it to them, so can be used for research). Call Jim Nevin in Albany on 9844 4779 and ask him where it is at, he was the Albany focal point there when I was talking to him about it.

    Stirlings – bolting is banned in the East Stirlings, east of Chester Pass road. This is in the Stirling Ranges Management Plan, which is electronically available on the web (Google!) West Stirlings/Porongurups are open.

    Also no new bolts at Wallcliffe, although bolt repairs and replacements on existing routes are permitted, some need it.

    This is all as of 3 years ago, CAWA Access Officer has a box of documents on the topic, sorted by area, incl. correspondence, or at least there was a box when I had it 7 years ago. It is most useful to consult past history as individual CALM offices do their own thing and there is no national approach.

    generally they accept the argument that most national parks etc are used for public recreation and just as public demand access roads, trails and signs, climbers sometimes need bolts.

    Good climbing

    Ross

    #4209 Reply
    Rob Wall
    Member

    There is not a lot to add to the above really; its all been said before. But here goes anyway.

    I think it is important to weigh up practilaties, history, and others opinions in making bolting decisions.

    My views on the Stirlings if anyone cares:

    A. I support establishing a ‘sport’ wall on Trio (although this may not get CALM approval)

    B. I strongly reject any rap or retro bolting on Bluff Knoll. Owen, Russell and I did ‘Welsh Connection’ yesterday, and a couple of bolts on that would have made a great route a fairly worthless one IMHO.

    (Even though we were wishing for a bolt in one place – but thats kind of the point!).

    #4210 Reply
    eye in the sky
    Guest
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