Climbing is banned by the local town council at Pep Grove. There is a sign there saying so. Same at Cot Wall. This is probably the reason it was removed from the guides. This occurred after some tosser broke his neck diving into 1 cm deep water at Cot Beach and then tried to sue to council, claiming that it didn’t warn him that to do so might be dangerous..

There are two bolted routes at PG. Well, three, if you include the one that has star-pickets hammered into the choss. You need bolt plates.

The one on the left side of the main face has one bolt up high. I’d advise using some cams down lower, as a fall before you clip this would result in a chauffer driven ride in a green and white van with flashing lights and a siren.

The one on the right has two bolts and a fall before you clip the second will result in a big fall, but if you belayer is up to it, you won’t hit the deck. Unless, of course, the bolt pulls out.

Up the top are several bolts (plates needed) for the belay anchors. I’d advise tying onto a tree or the post before trying to clip the anchors, as they are over the edge and it is often wet and slippery at the top. A head first plummet would also result in a chauffer driven ride in a green and white van, but they probably wouldn’t bother with the lights and siren as there would be no rush to get your body to the morgue.