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    Loofah Groove, 100m, 22***

    Starts 10m right of Riddy Wuzere below a bolt and shallow grooves. Brilliant, varied slab climbing with lots of memorable cruxes and well protected by bolts (no hangers required). It provides a fine juxtaposition to it’s neighbour, Riddy Wuzere, which is a climb from another era and worthy of repeating in its own right. Albeit, it can be rather frightening depending on how much moss is about ! No such moss issues on Loofah Groove however, and adequate bolts means a fun day out for all. Finishes just below the summit on the same ledge as Riddy Wuzere (far south end of ledge) and Gemini (~4m to the south of DBB). Gemini looks rather runout and probably has not seen a 2nd ascent. Aspiring punters should beware !

    Pitch 1, 30m, 18
    10bolts. Very enjoyable, well featured slab climbing. Up easy slab to first bolt. Pleasantly up past bolts, flakes, grooves and jugs before a delicate sequence (crux) takes you to the base of a right leading ramp. Step right a little before climbing up onto ramp and following it right. Cross the deep groove (easier higher up) and find DBB on slab right of groove.

    Pitch 2, 20m, 22
    7 bolts. Classic delicate slab climbing with a trio of subtle cruxes. High step and smear your way nervously past the 2nd bolt and grab the crimper rail gleefully at the 3rd. Wobbly you your way over the awkward step before overcoming the final steepening with some very classy climbing. Pad up the easy slab to DBB on the headwall. The belay at the top of Gemini pitch 2 is down and slightly left in the nasty gulch.

    Pitch 3, 28m, 22
    10bolts. Traverse right 3m from belay into grooves. First bolt is mildly awkward to get to. Stem, pinch and layback your way up the groove past bolts (crux). Swing onto the nose and launch yourself up on to the detached perch in a fantastic position. Gloriously stem up the big groove to the right and then romp up the plaisir slab to DBB on ledge. Superb, varied climbing.

    Pitch 4, 25m, 10
    Scramble out right up blocks to top. No bolts on this pitch but you can place some med to large wires if you have them or thread blocks with long slings. If you got this far, running it out is not a problem. Friction belay on the summit or use one or two med to large wires. Descend north eastish towards tourist summit of Marmabup Rock. Picking up your packs where you left them; summit, saddle or base of route. You could easily rap down the route if required using the DBBs and a 60 m rope but you will need leaver biners, shackles or prussic as the anchors are hangers.

    Neil Gledhill, Kate Swain 2012

    #106909 Reply


    Red = Loofah Groove
    Blue = Gemini
    Green = Riddy

    #106918 Reply

    looks nice good work!

    #106931 Reply

    Love ya work…!

    #112268 Reply

    Onsighted this well-bolted, easy to follow little gem on the weekend. 3rd pitch was sent in drizzle which developed into rain for the final scramble to the summit.


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