Some new routes at Gibraltar Rock, The Porongurups.

Fortress Crack 25m 24 ***

The open book corner on the north west edge of the cluster of giant boulders on the hilltop about 500m to the south of Gibraltar Rock. This area is called “King Alfred’s Castle” in the latest Porongurups Guide. To approach, traverse around the western side of Gibraltar Rock and head south across the open slabs. Keep traversing at a low level until you can see the corner facing you, then head directly up the slabs

Fortress Crack takes the gob-smacking overhanging corner. The top overhangs the bottom by over 5m +++ ! Up the easy slab and then mantle and squirm your way up the overhanging block to get in position at the base of the corner. Getting to here is not as hard as it looks and there are hands free rests! The line is all too obvious from here – layback and stem your way to glory up the improbable looking corner. Fantastic sustained climbing with the crux at 2/3 height where the corner steepens. Take as many medium cams as you can hang around to plug in and a 3 camalot or larger for the top. A medium wire is useful at the bottom of the corner.

F.A. Jon Gregg, Neil Gledhill, 13 May 06 (led with gear in place)

Dance of the Slab Spiders 65m 19 *

Starts at the narrow slabby tongue that extends to the ground about 100m right of Joint Venture. The climb goes up the wall just to the right of the obvious mossy drainage line that is topped by bushes 70m above the ground.

Pitch 1: 15m 16 Up the slab trending right past 3BR to the pod and DBB. First bolt is a little high as it was meant to be the second bolt but unfortunately the battery died drilling the final hole! If you’re up for the second pitch you should have no problems here.

Pitch 2: 50m 19 Straight up the well featured face past 11BR to ledge and DBB. A 50m rope will suffice but don’t use too much at the belay. Be careful of loose flakes off the main line. The line up the bolts was cleaned but there are some flakey sections where a delicate touch is recommended. Exercise good judgement. Crux at the obvious steepening 3/4 of the way up. Good climbing up steep, well featured and sharp rock. From the top of the second pitch it’s still 70m to the top but a relatively easy scramble up the slab.

F.A. Jon Gregg, Neil Gledhill, 14 May 06