Protection on One for the Road, Wilyabrup

This topic has 7 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 13 years, 2 months ago by Lorin.

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15 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9448 Reply
Lorin
Hi,

I’m wondering what people usually use to protect the crux moves (overhang/roof) on “One for the Road” at Wilyabrup?

The crack widens substantially at the roof, so I’m wondering if my biggest cam or hex (a size 4 camalot or a size 4 DMM hex) will be big enough?

Protection in the crack seems easy enough until this point.
15 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9449 Reply
Ryan
I use a No5 camalot but i’ve been told a 4 fits better but i dont have one of those, i also back it up with a hex (No7 rockcentric, wild country). If you look around there are a surprising amount of options to the point of being confusing!

Good luck working the sequence, i’ve seen it done several ways, some more cumbersome than others…
16 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9450 Reply
Lorin
Thanks Ryan!

That makes me feel better. I’m glad I don’t have to go and buy more gear just now.

Out of interest, where do you place the cam and hex as mentioned? On the overhang/roof itself, or just before it? Also, how deep in the crack? From memory, the crack is at least arm deep on the overhang.

I definitely like the idea of using more than one piece!

I’ve done the route a couple of times on top-rope… and yeah, each time I did the crux differently. There are good holds to both the left and the right as you come over the edge. The trick is finding them! And the choice of left or right made a big difference to how I did the move.

Cheers,

Lorin
16 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9451 Reply
Neil
Number 5 ??

Number 1 or 2 camalot goes in up high where the crack narrows. Place it from the flake jug inside the crack just before you do the crux.

If you are not unusually short, there is a stylish way of doing the crux and it is no harder than the rest of the route.

For maximum enjoyment the route has been done on all hexes and jamming the roof crack not using any of the jugs.
16 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9452 Reply
Lorin
Neil,

A 1 or 2 up high, placed from the jug? Awesome.

I don’t know about “maximum enjoyment” though! Sounds more like maximum terror, for me anyway.

Thanks guys, now I’ll have to give it a try next time I’m there!
16 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9453 Reply
Numbat
I use a 1 or 2. Actually, I usually use BOTH a 1 and a 2.
17 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9454 Reply
Ryan
Oops, just checked the numbers on my cams and it’s actually No3 that i use, sorry, the 5 would be tough to find a place for! And when i said a 4 is best, well that should have been a 2 i think (should be a gold one i believe, i tend to work on the colour of my gear not the number, sorry for the confusion!)
18 June 2011 at 12:00 AM #9455 Reply
Lorin
Cool. A size 1 and 2 it is then.

That crack must be a lot wider in my memory than it is in real life!

Thanks for the tips everyone!
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