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  • #8437 Reply
    Dissapointed…
    Guest

    Has anyone read the latest Rock magazine and noticed a few changes?

    There was no letters area and while the photos and articles are great it left me feeling a bit dissapointed.

    Anyone else agree?

    #8438 Reply
    jason
    Member

    dunno about the letters but what about the new climbing area down near esperance?? anyone heard of that? i am intrigued as to its lack of discussion on here but it makes it into a national publication?

    #8439 Reply
    Friend of Numbat
    Member

    99% of the cool things going on in WA rock climbing are not on the CAWA website. Especially new routes and crags….

    #8440 Reply
    jason
    Member

    if that is the case then how are people supposed to find out about it?

    #8441 Reply
    errrr
    Member

    read rock magazine! its a great new area…

    #8442 Reply
    Doug
    Member

    Hey, There was a rock issue (I will find the issue number when I get home from site) and there was an awesome cover shot of a climber working a slightly overhanging route. It is captioned as a WA route but it was never revealed where. That’s another example of secret WA climbing?

    #8443 Reply
    seth
    Member

    that was vanessa wills on a 26. the route is at a secret crag up north in the desert, about two days drive.

    people will die before they reveal its location! there are boulder fields in the area that resemble hueco tanks…

    #8444 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Yup thats the way to put WA climbing on the map, don’t tell anyone where a desert crag is that you have been on for years, it is a long way from the capital and only dedicated climbers will make the trek so it won’t get trashed but ten years later it is still a (fairly) secret spot. WTF? Also why publish a wa crag solely in a national magazine? If it goes on the Cawa site at least it will (eventually) be put in a guide either online or in print. Come on guys share the wealth…

    #8445 Reply
    Francis
    Member

    I agree, whats with the selfish behavior I m sure if I found a nice crag and shared it with any climber they would be eternally grateful.

    Hoarding a good spot to yourself for a short while till you have scoped it out is fine but after that its just ridiculous.

    Snap out of it guys do you honestly believe other climbers will ruin what you claim to be your own?

    On the other hand if you just needed a forum to share the information well I guess your looking at it.

    On with the pioneering and upward with the growth of the climbing spirit.

    #8446 Reply
    Mike
    Member

    I agree. Share the wealth. Give us directions! Publish some new mini-guides or at least write up some of the new routes or problems that are getting sent on this site. Good on ya to those who are doing that! Thanks for all the mini guides… looking forward to the Walyunga one, Jason.

    That Hueco-like area up north sounds really intriguing…

    #8447 Reply
    Seth
    Member

    I must admit to having only seen photos of the area, I’m yet to go. The folks that first found it have their reasons for which I can’t answer for and I’m not going to argue about.

    I’m as intrigued and psyched by the hueco-esque boulders myself!

    There is loads of rock, especially bouldering, in the Perth hills to be climbed, I’m amazed more people aren’t getting out on it…

    #8448 Reply
    Seth
    Member

    In fact the bouldering at the esperence crag looks promising!

    #8449 Reply
    Ed Nepia
    Member

    The bouldering potential there is stupendous

    as for keeping areas ‘under wraps’ that’s a long tradition when new areas are being developed

    one of the rewards for putting in the hard work of opening new areas is the chance to pick the plumb lines first eh

    #8450 Reply
    seth
    Member

    My mistake, it was actually Vanessa Peterson on the “mystery” route.

    #8451 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    Much ado about nothing methinks: East of Esperance ? TWO DAYS DRIVE up north? It is cheaper and faster to get to Arapiles!

    Or to drive the point home with a sledgehammer….it’s like living in Berlin and saying gee there is this great new area near Moscow, we must publish it… 🙁

    I recon it’s OK to have a little obscure play crag to onesself for a while….I have mine right next to Perth right now 🙂

    #8452 Reply
    Ed nepia
    Member

    Hah nice one Ross , you should put it on the loop it’s exellent quality stunning setting camp ground 15 minutes walk away and loads of potential

    best sport routes in WA ?

    #8453 Reply
    Horace
    Member

    That Rock cover picture is in the Mainpeak shop on a giant wall print. Amazing photo.

    Hope we eventually find out where it is.

    HH

    #8454 Reply
    Mike
    Member

    I guess this is the picture you are talking about?

    http://www.wild.com.au/store/productView.aspx?product_guid=10685570-7B5B-425F-9BBF-F0106C4DBDB6

    looks very cool.

    I saw it was from July 2003. I reckon it’s fine for developers to keep a new area under wraps while they get the plumb lines or whatever, but 7 years?! That’s long enough for a 6 year old wunder-climber to be born and send 9c+ these days. It’s not like there are that many climbers in WA who will swoop in and nick the FAs of projects you are working on anyway… (by “you” I mean whoever is developing this fabled area…) whatever. Just noticed the pic was from 2003…

    #8455 Reply
    In the new guide?
    Member

    Is place gonna be in the new guide?

    #8456 Reply
    Rob
    Member

    The Routes L to R (note Rock misedited some of this, this version is more correct).

    Music Wall:

    NAME, GRADE, LENGTH, PRO, FIRST LEADER INITIALS AND DATE, COMMENT.

    *L’Esperence, 18, 15m, 5 bolts. DW 12/09. Steep fun.

    UNNAMED, 21, 20m, 6 bolts + take one thread. SR 12/09. Tricky move L near top.

    Tingle in Your Fingers, 23/4, 24m, 6 bolts. RW 12/09. Desperate at the start.

    Kiwi Wall:

    *Family Affair, 22, 28m, 6 bolts. RW 4/08. Crux at start.

    Flying Kiwis, 18/19, 28m, 5 bolts. EN 1/09.

    There She Blows, 19, 28m, 6 bolts. EN 1/09.

    Dance on Fires, 20/21, 28m, 6 bolts. RW 1/09.

    *Windjammer, 15, 25m, Trad. EN 1/09.

    Orange Wall:

    *UNNAMED 22/3, 25m, 6 bolts. SR 12/09. 21 until the last move!

    Universe Wall:

    Ultimate Question, 22, Trad with 1 bolt. RW 1/09.

    All these 10 are stared routes (really). The * means absolute classic!.

    Access: From Esperence head East, making an improbable number of consecutive right turns following the signs to “Cape Le Grand National Park”. Once in the Park follow the sign to “Lucky Bay” (named by Matthew Flinders who sought refuge there in 1802), where you can camp for $8 per night and have free solar hot showers. It does get busy in peak times as its a fantastic snorkeling and swimming spot. To get to the climbing walk on the signed trail toward “Thistle Cove”. After 1km, near a hilltop you will see a balancing croissant rock, just after this take a left fork and follow the fisherman’s track down for 50m. You get to an obvious ledge facing “L’Esperence” , and can scramble down the gully (grade 5) to the climbs. The climbs all reach top-bolts so you can belay on top and walk off. Long slings are needed if you want to lower off.

    #8457 Reply
    Rob
    Member

    Above is for “Kangaroo Rock”

    #8458 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    I just happened to be cruising past and noticed this thread. To get back to the original post the reason we don’t have a letters page in Rock is because no one seems to send us any anymore. Obviously we a. don’t make any mistakes or, b. aren’t being controversial enough, or c. people are writing on forums instead.

    #8459 Reply
    Amused
    Member

    Guess I might have to write a letter about secret crags and how long are they allowed to be secret.. 🙂

    #8460 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    Sounds like a good subject for an editorial, I would say a 20 year time limit would be fair.

    #8461 Reply
    Rob Wall
    Guest

    The long version of the article on the new Esperence area can be found here with some photos.

    /robjwall.wordpress.com/2010/10/27/kangaroo-rock-full-version-of-rock-article/

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