Home Forums Climbing Talk Route info cornerstone bluff knoll

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  • #108501 Reply

    Hi guys. I am looking to do my first big trad climb. I was looking at cornerstone on bluff knoll. My guide book says grade 11. However it says it starts at prickles traverse then up 132m. How ever there is a clear route line from the ground to prickles traverse and it has the same no. 1 as cornerstone. Where is the route info for the first half of the climb.
    You can also get to prickles by doing the first half of anti-climax. Grade 15. But I just want to do an easy big climb as I’m a begginer.
    Does anyone have info on the missing first half of the climb. Or has climbed it.
    Hope you have some info for me. Cheers dan

    #108683 Reply

    Route finding at Bluff Knoll…. I wish you luck!
    Essentially, if you want to climb to Prickle Traverse, pick a section between the Northwest corner and the Big gully and head on up. The lower section of Right Anti Climax isn’t no hard but chances are you will end up climbing some other part of the Knoll anyway!

    As for Corner Stone, once on Prickle Traverse, head for the far left end. Just before (say 20m) the traverse drops away relatively sharply and disapears into the north face, look for a large rock/boulder with c.s painted on it. Sounds easy enough but see how you go, heaps of fun either way!

    #109962 Reply

    Hi Hammer,

    I’ve done Cornerstone a couple of times and I’ve always started at the base, not at PT. I’ve never had any problems with getting up anywhere around that area. The last time I did it, I just wandered up all over the place, including doing a weird traverse on a little ledge that reminded me of The Bard at Araps.

    Another good climb is Easter Gully. Most of this is about grade 8 to 13, with a great 16 pitch if you want to do it on the Nose, otherwise just go around it.

    Take plenty of water, a headtorch and a light jacket or something in case the weather changes. Wear a helmet. Two-way radios are good too, so you can talk to your partner easily (and call for help if you need it!)

    Expect an hour to an hour and a half from the carpark to the base (assuming you can find the old tourist track). Six to 10 hours of climbing, depending on how fast you are. An hour from the top back to the carpark.

    Have fun!

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