“Short Circuit Direct” at Staham,s

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  • #9897 Reply
    Ross Weiter

      *** Short Circuit Direct (25m, 19)

      Start as for SC, but then deviate from the original line to the left. Many jugs, couple of cruxes, 10RBs and lower-offs.

      Route Notes: This effort took $160 and one and a half days of hard labour incl. much boulder tossing…crowbar, yay…. :). As a result it turned a piece of choss rock that no one would lead (see rusty piton relic 2m R of bolt No.9) into possibly the most popular moderate route in Statham’s….I think a dozen people did it one week after it was put up. Grading….some of those people last w/e thought that grade is 17, but they can climb 25+, so I beg to differ, no disrespect. The route is a bit pumpy, very exposed and very long which ads to the grade. I find the crux past No.5 bolt strenuous….and also a bit tired of the WA sandbag grades. ……….anyway, I am interested in feedback by gr 18-20 leaders as climb is highly unusual for Perth outdoor (overhanging jugfest) so hard to benchmark. BTW I came back after FA to reglue the crux jug on following Fri, you’ll know it when you see it. The rain should have washed off all the dust by now. Enjoy.

      #9898 Reply
      Luke B

        Nice one Ross! Steep routes with big holds are definitely lacking in the Perth scene.

        #9899 Reply
        Tony

          Clears it up for me, thanks.

          #9900 Reply
          Ross

            No worries, Tony.

            Also….I’m rolling over on the grade, most people now seem to think gr.18.

            #9901 Reply
            B

              Agreed it’s probably closer to 18 Ross.

              #9902 Reply
              Stuart

                Onsighted/hangdogged the newly protected Short Circuit today, Loved it and thank you Ross for the hard work re bolting.

                I’m only a moderate grade climber and thought it to be a solid 6a+/19 (a good 2 grades harder than Morning Glory at 17, go figure)but I’m old. Sustained,pumpy,longish,exposed.

                I’m sure it would be 18 if you are climbing 24s or have all the moves memorised.

                #9903 Reply
                Shev

                  It’s at least an 18 onsight, I think. It had me cursing today, but I also think it’s one of those climbs that seems easy in retrospect (i.e., now that the moves are clear to me, I know I’ll be perhaps a little less vocal on it :)(I climb low 20s at best).

                  It’s exciting to have a long, juggy climb like this to play on at Statham’s – thanks for the hard work in bolting and cleaning up this climb.

                  #9913 Reply
                  Francis

                    Nice work, a very enjoyable sustained climb. Leading solid 19-20s I felt this climb deserved a solid 18 light 19 grade matching up to many 19s in the Perth area.

                    #10146 Reply
                    Mark

                      Good climb! Very different from most of the other offerings up in the quarries 🙂

                      There is a hold that moved a bit when I grabbed it, next to the last bolt before the lower-off. It is quite a large piece of rock if it does decide to come out one day. I don’t think that is imminent but it is definately worth being wary of for now.

                      #10344 Reply
                      B

                        NB: A large chunk did get pulled off up near the last moves about two weeks ago so there could still be some not so solid pieces around.

                        #10683 Reply
                        Owen

                          Mark, I think I had the same experience – it was a large chunk of the pillar on the R at about the level you described (roughly below the last bolt), which shifted when I pulled on it. Best take extra care around the last bolt and avoid pulling hard on features R of the corner… and belayer best stand off to the left.

                          #11493 Reply
                          Allison

                            Hi Ross, I understand that you and a small group of experienced climbers work really hard to put up new routes for all of us to enjoy. I can’t help in terms of putting up new stuff, but I’ll be happy to contribute to ease the financial burden… and I think a lot of the climbers who enjoy the routes you put up, feel the same. Is there some way we can contribute?

                            #11589 Reply
                            Scott

                              We had a large chunk to the right of the last bolt pull off today, that whole corner section to the right of it still looks very unstable though so take care.

                              #11603 Reply
                              Ross

                                Hi Allison – thanks for the offer but I am happy to self fund. I mostly do new routes where this is the norm but on the odd rebolt I view this as “doing good” and certainly better than paying taxes. Most of my effort is to do with time expended (so much other stuff to do) rather than money, at least in my case. Enjoy.

                                Scott – I should get out there before end of year with my now-longer-than-before-crowbar….also to be used for some work on the loosened-up “Agent de France”…. Unfortunately S.C.D will always be a bit loose, that is the nature of that rock, but I’ll see what I can do …..not meaning to discourage others from doing the same 🙂 ….mind you removing lose boulders is tricky work as these things can move in unexpected ways, huh….

                                #11607 Reply
                                Roo

                                  Hey Ross,

                                  NICE… Did it on the weekend, I’d agree it would have to be at least 18..

                                  Cheers

                                  #11843 Reply
                                  Mark

                                    Ross,

                                    great route, with some of the most euro pro I have seen in this state so far! had me fighting today (just so managed to flash it, with quickdraws already in). Does seem harder than other 17s around (we did Striding Edge Direct, Morning Glory, and Kid Rock earlier in the day, and they all seemed significantly easier). So 18 might be right, maybe even 19 (if you compare it, say, to Penthouse in Mountain Quarry, it would seem 19 rather than 18, but then Penthouse might just be an easy 18?).

                                    There’s still a bit of sand in the route, but that will settle with more people doing it and the rains stopping to wash dirt into it.

                                    Mark E.

                                    #11990 Reply
                                    Brett NP

                                      Cool route Ross, thanks for putting it up!

                                      I lead it on Saturday arvo, & easily rate it 19 in my books. It is very sustained & exposed for a climb of that grade in Perth, I only just made it, had to rest part way up as my arms were pumped!
                                      I found the hardest section the crack below the lower-offs, had to do a leery hand-jam to get up past there, nearly slipped .. maybe I missed another hold? Will give it another go this w/end I hope.

                                      cheers, Brett

                                      #12016 Reply
                                      hamond

                                        Realy nice consistent climb. Still grade it hardish 17 or moderate 18 though strenuous – but lots of rests. Crux down half-way on the old grade 15 line requiring a rightwards deviation to the glued-on hold. Don’t remember this part being so hard on the 15 top-rope, probably something fell off.

                                        #12031 Reply
                                        Ross

                                          You are true master of the understatment, Hamond – “probably something fell off”. Tonnes of rock have fallen off or been cleaned off the route during the last 20 years and in particular during the bolting. Also, there are no holds that are “glued-on”, which kinda imples adding them which I am very against. There are quite a few that are “glued”, i.e. reinforced so as to stay where they are. Pretty sure you did not mean the former but just to clarify anyway….. 🙂

                                          #12033 Reply
                                          hamond

                                            yea, a reinforced hold. No artificial aids on this climb. Very handy little block leading right. Though the direct route following the bolt line is possible. Just needs more staimina (maybe 19 for that). And a great climb for winter. I have climbed it in the rain when it was the only dry climb in the quarry.

                                            #12171 Reply
                                            Pete

                                              Climbed SCD today and couldn’t help noticing the largish slabby chunk, maybe 3m left of the 7th bolt, that looks very loose indeed. Maybe it’s been there all the while but I didn’t notice it when I climbed the route a few months ago.

                                              Whilst it’s not on route, it’s sitting right over the top of where you’d normally stand to belay – so basically in line with the first bolt. It looked that bad that I shimmied over to it when we were cleaning up to see if it would just push off. It wouldn’t, and actually looks like it’s had some glue applied.

                                              Anyway, just wanted to put it out there as it looks disconcerting and you might take it into consideration when choosing where to position the belay.

                                              Other than that, great climb and I’d rate it at a stiff 18. Not quite a 19 as even with the length there are plenty of good spots to rest IMO.

                                              #12594 Reply
                                              Trevor

                                                Finally got around to doing this on the weekend and agree it would be an 18, the rest of the guys in the group agreed for the most part though the girls all said 19. Sustained and pumpy are all good words to use for the climb. Most had trouble when they tried to hug the corner then move up, if you hang out a bit more and soak up the exposure you’ll find the climb easier.

                                                #12596 Reply
                                                Ang

                                                  This climb is definitely an 18. There are plenty of rests and I agree with Trevor, the climb is easier if you are prepared to hang out.

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