Home Forums Climbing Talk Short Circuit freaky bits

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  • #107000 Reply

    The top of Short Circuit is looking pretty dodgy. I’m referring to the person-sized block just to the right of the last clip and the anchors. It is becoming more detached and has been known to make unsettling noises when used. SC is a popular route and it would be horrible to have this block come off and squish the belayer, or at least send rock shards flying into them as it hits the ground.
    I propose the block be deliberately levered off before someone does it “spontaneously”. Its removal wouldn’t impact on any other climb, and maybe wouldn’t change SC too much (depends on what’s uncovered- a second crux??).Yes it is a quarry and choss is part and parcel but this is one bit of joy Stathams could do without.
    Comments? Especially from geologists and engineers, lol.

    #107003 Reply

    To many liability issues. For these things individual initiative is probably best. Proposals may not be the way to go.

    #107013 Reply

    I didn’t mean a legal proposal to some gov dept, geez! Individual initiative is exactly what I’m suggesting, just want to know if others have seen said freaky bits and also think it needs to be liberated.

    #107014 Reply

    I completely agree Ang. As we discussed when out there today, the amount that block has moved is alarming. Just as frightening was the complete oblivion of the people on the climb and sitting/standing under it. All without helmets. Not that a helmet would help much if that fell on you. I don’t mind a bit of choss and negotiating loose blocks but that is one objective hazard that needs to be removed. I’d be happy to do it but I think it needs a strong man with a crow bar.

    #107025 Reply

    Initiative isn’t something you suggest, it’s something you do. good luck

    #107084 Reply

    get pics 🙂

    #107159 Reply
    Timothy Smith

    Climbed SC yesterday for the first time. Noticed at the top of the hand crack near the penultimate clip there is a block that will most certainly come off if pulled to hard. only looks to be about the size of a persons head. Had read this thread before heading out there. Plenty of other holds around this piece to use so as not to put your belayer at risk, however the risk of using it is hidden until you climb past it.

    Is the person sized block you speak of the block that forms the hand jam crack or the block above it that you have a nice side pull with your right hand as you clip into the anchors? Neither made funny noises yesterday. Though the block used for the side pull looks much more dubious than the block below it. Looking at it, I thought if this block were removed, it might even add to the instability of the area…

    If you read the guide you know what your in for, it has an X. My concern is that it’s quite an easy climb to read, lots of chalk, seems clean at first glance, and looks really safe with all those bolts so people without a guide may not give it a second thought before jumping on it.

    I thought it was worthy of at least a star.

    #107173 Reply

    The X in the guidebook is a relic from before the route was cleaned up and ringbolted with a slight modification at the top of the route a few years ago, and has nothing to do with the climb in its current form. Look a little closer at the topo photo. The description also mentions pitons and sparse, dubious pro in loose rock, now not applicable (no pitons, no need for trad gear, plenty of bolts).Hidden somewhere in the Forum is the post for when SC was re-done, with the new grade about an 18. The amendment missed being included in the new (current) edition. Just because you didn’t experience any noises doesn’t mean nothing is happening. The very top head-sized block is clearly detached and the big block it is sitting on (the whole pillar) has fracturing the whole length where it joins the wall.

    #107175 Reply

    Just checked my photos from saturday against the topo photo, yes there is quite a difference in the finish! Why was it changed? looks like there’s anchors where it used to finish.

    I realise the X is from before it was bolted. In my opinion, just because it got bolted doesn’t qualify total disregard of seeing an X after the grade, it still has loose rock (hence this thread right?) and some of the falls onto the sharp jagged rock could still be really nasty.

    Photo Link:

    Hopefully the link to the photo works. In the image, where the climbers left foot is, is a super loose piece of rock the size of a head which is about ready to be pulled off. And where his head is, immediately right of the anchors is what I thought you were talking about. However I think you’re talking about the pillar which he’s standing on (correct?). 1m right of his right leg is a sweet fissure. Would be good to know if it trends left or right into the wall.

    After looking at that photo, I certainly wouldn’t want to be the one crowbar-ing the pillar considering those large blocks on top of it! Will you have a crack at leading it with a 6ft crowbar on your harness? Bugger the toothbrush lol.

    #131657 Reply

    4 weeks ago I had a go at the loose block just right of the anchors with a massive crowbar and could not move it 1 millimeter….just like I could not move it when I was bolting it few years ago. So you can all stop freaking out people………for a few years. Not to say that the odd smaller thing wont come loose here and then. Thing overhangs and gravity only works one way.

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