Home Forums Climbing Talk Skinny vs. big climbers

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  • #9414 Reply
    ed nepia

    hey man don’t believe the hype about weight … if your 6.3 and 85kg your going to be pretty lean so worry not and get cranking

    there are some very accomplished climbers who don’t fit the typical climbers physique mould… look up John Dunne sometime

    what is important is good technique and good power to weight ratio

    good flexibility is a blessing you’ll never forget the first time you have to do a hand foot match on a slab or difficult mantle

    as for grades, don’t attach much importance to them yet, just go climbing on as many different types of routes as you can … indoors, outdoors, boulders, cracks, overhangs, slabs

    have fun

    #9415 Reply
    Tyrone C.

    Good on ya man, good to see you have the right attitude about it! Hopefully i’ll seya down there!

    #9416 Reply
    Luke B

    Hey, I’ll be stoked if you can prove me wrong!

    #9417 Reply

    Ever since I started climbing about a month ago, i havent been able to think about anything else. Every weekday i find myself looking forward to friday when i can climb for another two days.

    #9418 Reply

    Yep, gym grades are bs.

    Ross, the Hangout doesn’t use any v-grades, it is mind-boggling concoction of easy to hard that follows no reason. seems to work though.

    #9419 Reply

    At your age stay away from booze, drugs and women all will reduce the amount of time you can train, feel like training and the amount of money you have so you can go away on trips climbing. Unless you have a climbing girlfriend and then she will probably get stronger than you and you will feel belittled…

    On the positive note; stretch, rest when you are injured (no climbing at all untill fully recovered) and find a climbing style that suits YOU. For your size you are probably always going to struggle on steep, thin and bouldery climbs… You will however probably have great time on endurance overhanging jugs and if you get good technique, long sustained technical face, crack or slab climbing…

    #9420 Reply

    I also recommend abstinence (from sex….with other people, that is). Not only does it demonstrate commitment and focus on climbing, it also does not require energy wasted on foreplay, avoids the dangers of oral cancer that arise from cunnilingus, the dangers of gaining fat that arise from late night dinners, sleepnessness that arises from snoring, and as studies on mice have demonstrated, bachelor mice live a lot longer than bonking mice.

    All of this should improve your climbing experience.

    #9421 Reply

    Well, apart from school, i have quite a bit of time. I don’t really have many friends, so any i make while climbing will probably be the ones i spend my time with.

    Actually for my size I’m pretty agile, but yeah, get what you’re saying.

    #9422 Reply

    Hi Yogurt.

    I disagree with you on some points. I think any red-blooded Aussie bloke needn’t waste much energy with foreplay – after all, how hard is it to ask “Hey, are you awake?” Actually, if she drunk enough, you don’t even need to waste that much energy.

    And I don’t see how speaking foreign languages gives you oral cancer?

    But you might be right with the other things.

    #9423 Reply

    Hey Numbat ……”no need foreplay”……so you have access to the Tardis, huh? Take me with you, I want to go back to the 50s also!! As for the lingus of cunni, rather than being about linguistic smarts the act does unfortunately double to triple risk of oral or throat cancer….so back to the 50s on that one also. Luckily The Rabbit and his friends solve that problem so we can all cast such distractions aside and get on with climbing, yay!

    #9424 Reply

    Veering away from the original topic, but really the main reason indoor grades feel easy isn’t because a gym under grades, it’s because the holds are all right there telling you where to go. Half the battle with outdoor climbing is figuring out which part of the rock has the best grips to be used. How many times have you spent hours, heck sometimes days or more, cracking a problem, then once you’ve done it it’s easy all of a sudden. Dont kid yourself, you didn’t suddenly get way better, only figured out the mental aspect of the climb.

    This is a very difficult thing to recreate when setting routes and i sometimes feel sorry for the guys n gals setting climbs at gyms. I’ve even added dummy holds to routes i’ve set just to have a chuckle when people try to work the ‘crux’ when its infact easier to miss the hold altogether!

    As for what makes the better build for climbing? Just do the best with what you got, sometimes it helps to be small, sometimes it helps to be big.

    #9425 Reply

    Mmmm……. US gyms use V grades to grade their problems, at least Rockreation in LA did when I was there. Indoor bouldering IS very different from outdoor, just like leading, for exactly the reason expressed. But if we can use lead grades across indoor/outdoor then we can also use Sherman’s V-scale bouldering grades in the same way I recon, and when we do that then there is some point in striving for reasonable consistency. I mean there already is a bouldering scale commonly accepted across the English speaking world so why reinvent that wheel… I think the bouldering thing is still developing here but eventually this is the way things will be. And, ugh, grades do matter, that’s why (almost) everybody uses them…..but gym problems being temporary they are less important.

    It would be an interesting experiment to stick a clipboard next to a bouldering wall, just number the problems 1,2,3….. and let everyone write down what they think of the grade for new problems….a consensus or some kind of average would quickly develop.

    #158536 Reply

    I been reading a lot of the responses, and can’t disagree more with the comment that with 185cm and 85kg you can’t climb v9 and only get tto v5 . I been climbing for 5 years I am 188cm tall and through most of years I was 75kg and couldn’t climbed harder then v6 now I weight 83kg and v5-v6 is a warm up and sport climbing if it’s not 7b it’s a warm up too. One think I can say in my opinion what is super important is finger strength and core strength .

    #158832 Reply

    Holy thread revival batman!

    #162270 Reply

    Hey everybody! I do jogging and go to the gym, have muscles, but get tired so fast while climbing. I’m a newbie, so I try climbing only on a teach sport rocks, and it’s really hard and exhausting for me. What should I do to increase endurance, maybe you know some special trainings?

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