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  • #7512 Reply
    Shannon
    Guest

    Was at mountain last night having a climb on Starwars and saw a new chipped line that goes straight up to the skywalker roof, does anyone know if this affects the footwork for the traverse?

    #7513 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    hope it dosnt..

    #7514 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    I’ll check it out on Fri. Having led SW in the past, I should have a decent idea.

    #7515 Reply
    Phillip
    Member

    Just out of interest to the chipper, chipping in the quarries is actually illegal according to DEC regulations.

    #7516 Reply
    ed nepia
    Member

    whatevers happened i just hope that skywalker hasnt been altered as a result, its a great route

    #7517 Reply
    Dave
    Member

    So has anyone had a look at whether the new route effects sky walker yet?

    #7518 Reply
    Shannon
    Member

    Well I just got back from mountain and have had a good look and a little play on Skywalker and also caught up with another friend who has been using it as a project and guess what….the chipping and drilling has affected the roof traverse. There is a dirty great drilled pocket that can be used for a foothold now and one of the origional flakes used to smear as a foothold when climbing around the end of the roof has been REMOVED. So to the dumbarse that chipped it, well done dickhead.

    I suggest you go back, fill in the top drilled pocket and try to find and replace the flake you removed to maybe put the classic back to how it was. I reckon I am not the only person pissed off with this so knowing the local community I would say you have a couple of weeks to make good before your climb is completely erased.

    To all the chippers out there, if you do feel the need to chip a climb in a quarry at least make sure it doesn’t bloody well interfere with anything existing, I know you want your hard routes but have a bit of respect eh?

    #7519 Reply
    MArk
    Member

    Ah we must have just missed each other.. You could have then come and called me a dickhead to my face.

    As I said before I am happy to fill in said hold and reinstate it to what it was like. I climbed Skywalker a couple of weeks ago and do not believe that it detracts as the crimp that was there was /is about the same size.

    As for the flake all of the flakes were removed basically by hand, in my opinion making it safer for all. Should I attempt to glue up the fridge size boulder that fell out a couple of years ago and thus reinstating the route to its former glory?

    What about the microwave size block teetering on the edge just above the piton on SW? Shall I remove that making it overall a safer or leave it. I was going to trundle it off or shall I bolt and glue it in. I don’t mind.

    It just seams weird to me that we the chippers of Perth create a new climb, it attracts a whole heap of interest, lots of people get on it and have a go and in the end it is the squeaky wheel that gets the grease.

    #7520 Reply
    Brenton
    Member

    This doesn’t detract from the fact that you have altered an established and classic route. As for improving the safety, we are all aware of the risks of climbing in the quarry. I agree that sometimes blocks may need to be removed but was removing the flake really necessary for safety? Each to their own, but do the right thing – respect existing climbs and don’t impinge on the enjoyment of others.

    #7521 Reply
    Darren
    Member

    I have also recently climbed skywalker not just had a play on it….it’s just as it was. Have also had a look at the other line…hard! But a new addition to the quarry none the less. As far as I’m concerned if there were any changes I didn’t notice.

    #7522 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Ah darren, it may seem the same to you but we all climb differently, use different moves, holds, features and techniques, does this mean that because you can do the climb without the now missing part(s) that everyone else can too? no it doesn’t. so whereas you may not notice the difference, others with their own techniques will, the climb has now been changed. I am not a fan of chipping as most people know, but interfering with an existing climb is so much worse, and you seem to be trying to justify yourselves too?!

    #7523 Reply
    Shannon
    Member

    Hmmm, mark I have reflected on this a bit and probably shouldn’t have called you a dickhead, it is out of line for a public forum and I apologise.

    I was however pretty pissed off at the time due to the changes wrought on skywalker, the flakes you say came off almost by hand, which a few people actually used in climbing it, didn’t come off by themselves as the fridge sized rock did. Nor did they come off due to a climber putting pressure on them while climbing. They were removed by force therefore altering an established line. as for the microwave size block, I’d say don’t remove it as that would be altering again, it’s not like you are cleaning a new route, this is an established line. We are climbers and we understand the risks of falling rocks and quarry climbing in general, it doesn’t need to be sanitized.

    as for you guys chipping lines in a quarry, though fully chipped lines are not my cup of tea, I am not against them either as long as you are not interfering with any existing routes.

    #7524 Reply
    Shannon really?
    Member

    Yay.. now we got it in writing, when the microwave falls off, kills a kid sitting at the bottom Shannon said it was ok. It would appear Shannons second post is full backpace to attempt unwind his gum flappin after being called out on it. Really Shannon really.

    #7525 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Why would a kid be sittin at the bottom in an area that is cordoned off with “danger rock fall risk area” signs and an orange barrier fence?

    Why does the area have to be sanitized?

    How much back pedalling did Shannon do?

    He said sorry for calling a dick head a dick head in public and explained why, maybe he should have and maybe not after all his arguement is pretty valid…

    #7526 Reply
    Dave
    Member

    Which argument jeff? The chipping that effected a existing climb or calling the chipper a d@#khead?

    #7527 Reply
    George Firth
    Member

    I logged on this morning and someone was anonymously giving Jeff grief for calling Mark a Dhead(fair enough considering the issue had been laid to rest!).

    The Moderator(MArk) has then issued a warning that its not ok to insult someone under an anonymous name.

    I log on later this arvo and its all gone. WTF!. So it is not ok to call someone a “bitch” under an anonymous name, but totally fine to call someone a d#$head if your using your real name. Does it get a Gold star if you use your real name and you say it to the persons face!!.

    Please explain yourself Mark, as “yes” the new website looks great, but your moderation is somewhat questionable

    #7528 Reply
    Mark Weatherill
    Member

    Once I knew that “The Enforcer” had seen my response, I reluctantly deleted the exchange since it added nothing to the discussion of the route. I didn’t want this thread to be side-lined with a justification of our moderation policies.

    Regarding what is and isn’t acceptable, the difference in this case is that Shannon did it as part of a reasoned response. A one-liner hidden behind a pseudonym is only likely to produce more of the same.

    Whilst we can dream of a utopia without censorship, if these sort of comments are kept then the community will think that it is an acceptable way to act. My aim is to raise the level of discussion to actual issues rather than personal opinions of others. The Bolting/ACZ thread is a good example of where this has worked well.

    If anyone would like to discuss this further, I’d appreciate you opening a new thread to prevent further hijacking of this one.

    #7529 Reply
    MArk
    Member

    I am not a moderator, I just log into CAWA using MArk. I am just a little slow in releasing the capslock key and I have kept my posting as MArk to differentiate between all the other Mark’s. Truth is I am big enough to take the insults (Emil / goyder hold off on the jokes) and have been called worse. I just see the internet as a fairly easy option for people to abuse people and then hide behind a false or non esistant identity. This is not a good example of the younger members that may use this site. If someone has a problem with me or my actions like I said in the first place I am happy to talk with them in person and then they can call me a dickhead to my face… Climb on.

    #7530 Reply
    Mark Weatherill
    Member

    Oops, I totally missed that George suspected we were the same person.

    #7531 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Dave, I am of course talking about the arguement against chipping that alters an existing route, while it does not seem to affect the way MArk and Darren climb it it does affect the way others climb it.

    Though there have been a few voices for and against this new route it does set a precedent for it to happen again, maybe the community in general don’t want to comment because skywalker is too hard for them to climb being a traditional route at grade 23ish, maybe they don’t care, maybe they don’t want to be called a d@#khead or don’t want the confrontation that the chipper seems keen for.

    Problem is that if no one speaks out then there is nothing to stop this happening to any other existing line out there, be it choss or classic

    #7532 Reply
    Ross W
    Member

    Well, I have redpointed it 6 years ago but this year am just not in good enough shape to try and repeat it. I’ve had back injuries and now a buggered index finger from trying the comp problems at RF…. Anyway, when and if I lead it again, and find that the route is altered by the “rock work” I will have no hesitation in fixing that with epoxy putty. Not to be spiteful or anything but trad routes at such grade are so rare around Perth that they are worth preserving, even though they are not popular as there are much easier ticks at the grade and with ringbolts. But it is not all about grades, is it…

    #7533 Reply
    Steve
    Member

    I climbed this the other day and the pocket would be easily used when doing the roof, have also seen a few people use it when they did it to. Ross you seem to be one of the voices of reason around here, have you looked yet?

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