Home Forums Accidents, near-misses and mishaps Stathams Incident

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  • #107644 Reply

    I was climbing ‘All the young Fascists (24)’ at Stathams Quarry today and I broke a crucial hold off just below the 4th bolt :/
    This seriously hinders the crux move and will add to the grading if someone can ascend it. Fortunately this large piece of rock missed my belayer, this is a wake up call for the need to use helmets with any climbing, I for one will be in the future.

    #107673 Reply

    Which hold are you talking about? Below the 4th bolt is the big jug. Did you break that?
    Not the crux move for me, but will make it harder. What is left of the hold?

    #107706 Reply

    Hi mario Yes Mate it was the Jug under the 4th bolt , the climb is way harder now as this was a crucial hand and footer
    to the right is a rather smooth slopper someone with superior ability may work out a way through this crux , would like to know their thoughts on the grade now ?

    #107876 Reply

    Graeme did a proper job of ripping the jug off.

    The climb has been done since using the crimp to the right (which is actually a shorter move than to the jug) and the newly formed sloper. The missing jug footer makes it more challenging maybe worthy of an extra grade but that could also be splitting hairs. Interesting and committing moves.

    #156352 Reply

    Does anyone else have any thoughts on ATYF grade snans jug. I’ve been on it lately and feel that its still a 24?

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