Stathams Quarry – another new route

This topic has 11 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 17 years, 4 months ago by John Knight.

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18 March 2007 at 12:00 AM #5832 Reply
Neil
All The Young Fascists (23) 15m**

2m Left of Chips and Dips. 6 bolts to loweroff. Finesse optional, grimacing ?….. well its up to you…. Good face climbing past 6 bolts (need bolt plates). 2nd bolt could be tricky to get to if you are short…. in fact; if you are short it could well be a bit tough for the grade higher up. some of the holds could be deemed creative atrocities… while others are just plain ugly. nevertheless, its a fine piece of rock and there’s no choss ! guaranteed ! have fun.

Neil Gledhill 17 March 2007
22 March 2007 at 12:00 AM #5833 Reply
Nick
I think it should be mentioned that the bolts are glued(GIMP) and rings for the lower off.

🙂
22 March 2007 at 12:00 AM #5834 Reply
Nick
oops i mean GIMB, just for those that refuse to even look at a carrot bolted route

>:)
2 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5835 Reply
Owen
I’m not sure if the ‘no choss’ warranty still survives now that the holds are falling off, neil 🙂

So does it get an upgrade or a downgrade?
2 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5836 Reply
Neil
yes, well…..

after a minor *incident* on the weekend i think the route now warrants 24.

stathams has had quite the revival of late !
4 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5837 Reply
John Knight
Ummm…. not to be picky… but… where is this? Statham’s? Mountain quarry?
4 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5838 Reply
climberchick
like it says up the top John – Stathams!
26 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5839 Reply
Matt Rosser
Danilo and I enjoyed ATYF yesterday and 24 seem OK.

As a warm up we climbed the old crack line that starts 1m left. This has had the original 2 gal bolts replaced and 2 new bolts added removing the need to place natural gear. Lower offs have also been added and thankfully the loose block has been removed. We were happy to take full advantage of the re-equipping and think the line will now become a much climbed warm-up route.

Any information on the new line left of the re equipped crack line? It seems to be missing a bolt at the start. We top roped the line and it’s ready to go – just missing the 1st bolt.
26 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5840 Reply
Logan
Also did ATYF Yesterday. Not Bad. Emil has rebolted Hammer and Tongs (8m to the right of Chips and Dips-also rebolted by Emil with new ending) which is now a superb route at 25
26 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5841 Reply
Neil
Left Lateral Port-Side Smidgen Winkler (left of ATYF) has been rebolted.

The other (new) line left needs a bit of tweaking down low but will be ready soon.

unfortunetly whilst removing the MASSIVE loose blocks from LLPSSW the best hold on ATYF almost ended up flying through owen’s windshield…. oh well.

hammer and tongs is good. but its slightly easier than it used to be a few years ago due to the cleaning that went on during the rebolting.

anyways, no complaints from me wrt that.

nice to see the surfy route at mountain quarry has been on the receiving end of some intiative. good to see :->
26 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5842 Reply
George
Nice work Neil, great to see some more work happening. I keep trying to get out, but helpers are hard to find.

Is the route Matt mentioned, the route that you re-bolted or another that he has done of his own bat. Either way it’s great, just wondering how to write it up.

Cheers Guys

George
27 April 2007 at 12:00 AM #5843 Reply
John Knight
lol, just looked at posts above, dunno what i was drinking that day! 😉
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