Sugarloaf Rock

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  • This topic has 9 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 19 years ago by John Knight.
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  • #4676 Reply
    Rob Wall

      “Pirates of the Carabiner” 20m, Grade 15. The crack up the middle of the obvious shield on the South Face of Sugarloaf Rock (Yalingup). Good rock and a sensational position. Rob Wall and Ashley Clementi, May 2006.

      Swim out to the start (we had a drybag). Don’t attempt in more than 2m of swell. (Please let me know if this isn’t a FA – someone probably soloed this in 1970 😉 )

      #4677 Reply
      Danny

        Isn’t this an A class Wildlife Reserve or something?

        #4678 Reply
        Toc

          As I understand it, no-one is allowed on Sugar Loaf rock without express permission and that will be for research purposes as it is reserved as a bird sanctuary. I guess that includes climbers, otherwise a lot of us would have already been there. Some stuff was done a long time ago, but it has been left alone for that reason. Probably not a good idea to advertise you’ve been there, even better idea not to go back.

          I can check that if anybody wishes.

          Cheers,

          Toc.

          #4679 Reply
          Peter

            One of the few nesting sites of the red-tailed tropic bird. You shouldn’t be climbing there!

            #4680 Reply
            Charlie

              So it must be a FA ?

              #4681 Reply
              Toc

                FA possibly. Some climbs were put up in the early 70s, so I was told, but after it was found that it was needed as a bird sanctuary no-one went back.

                Cheers,

                Toc.

                #4682 Reply
                Joe Bi

                  Pirates is therefore is very apt.

                  Dream on.

                  #4683 Reply
                  mick

                    pirates is the word!i really hope the offenders were not aware of the access issue with that particular cliff when they did the route.although,i find it hard to believe that an oldschooler like rob would be unaware of such issues.let him cop a deserved public bollicking for a short while longer then get it off the cawa site before someone from calm sees it!

                    #4684 Reply
                    Rob Wall

                      Like most climbers I respect ‘bird closures’, where they are known and understood (eg some routes at Arapalies mention when you can / cannot climb them due to nesting).

                      Actually we only noticed a small sign as we walked around to swim off. Before climbing we chatted to some calm workers who were improving the track and they took some photos of us while climbing – they didn’t mention anything. Nor did anyone else I have asked about Sugarloaf. To be honest the route is not very significant. If you removed this post, I won’t write it up anywhere else. We didn’t see any birds.

                      If anyone else climbs there they shouldn’t write it up either (althought it should be called ‘the black pearl’ if they did)

                      #4685 Reply
                      John Knight

                        xanax, cialis, dodgy internet meds! 😉 never mind me, route sounds fun. 😀

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