The Hardes Problems in WA
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Mike.
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Mike
Looking at the various mini guides floating around and crankdownproductions I compiled a list of the hardest problems in WA. Kinda fun to look at and dream… Here it is.
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Thin Grin V10, Kalamunda, FA: Jay
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The Witch (SDS) V9, Boulder Rock, FA: Andy
Use Your In-stink V9, Boulder Rock, FA: Andy?
Chisel Tips V9, Pipelines, FA: JG
Savage Bliss V9, Millars, FA: Goyder
Left Problem V9, Point 9, FA:?
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Claw of the Crab V8, Whaleback, FA:?
Chopper V8, Pipelines, FA: JG
Arête V8, Pinjarra, FA:?
Limbless V8, Dreaded Boulders, FA:?
Bee Wasp V8, Walyunga, FA: Andy
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Unnamed (#2) V8?, Mt Cooke, FA: Andy
Andy’s Hard Thing V8?, Mt Cooke, FA: Andy
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A Crab Called Wanda V7/8, Whaleback, FA:?
Gentlemen Prefer Lobster V7/8, Whaleback, FA:?
Black Steel V7/8, Mt Cooke, FA: Emil
Prizefighting V7+, Point 45, FA: Andy
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Quantum Static V7, Kalamunda, FA:?
Unnamed (#8 at Jonestown) V7, Kalamunda, FA:?
Beta Boy V7, Boulder Rock, FA:?
Whatchyadoinandy V7, Boulder Rock, FA: Andy
Execution V7, Pipelines, FA: JG
Shambala V7, Millars, FA: Emil
Comp Problem (#6) V7, Millars, FA: Jay
Love the Gay Banter V7, Millars, FA: Goyder
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The Schnauzer V7?, Millars, FA: Hank
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Does anyone want to add anything to the list? Move anything around? Take anything from it? It’s not definitive or anything but it was fun to search around and find which areas have the hardest stuff and who’s been putting it up. Some of the guides didn’t say who did what.
Also, a lot of this stuff is a few years old. Anything new that needs to be added? Have there been repeats of the V10 and the V9s?
Oh, and what about Mt Cuthbert, Mt Randall and the Toodyay boulders?
Hope it gets you inspired to get out there.
Mike
Luke B
You’ve been busy! Definitely inspiring, and could also be useful once I progress a couple more grades…
Luke B
The Minidala V8 at Statham’s.
Mike
Cool Luke. Hadn’t heard of the Minidala. I’ll add that one in.
Yeah, I will definitely need to progress a few levels too. I’m thinking I can get a couple of those V7s one day though…
seth
Andy put up 2 or 3 nails problems at Walyunga. The easiest of which is probably about V8, the other two?? V10+ maybe?
Might want to consider the problem to the left of the Grinch at Piplines. Not sure its grade, maybe V9?
Also at Millars, there are a couple of other hard Andy problems; In Your Dreams V9 and Bala V10ish?
Savage Bliss shouldd probably get a down grade.
And anything Emil did the FA of should probably get a grade harder…
cheers
seth
the problem I mention at pipelines might actually be chisel tips…
sorry
Mike
Thanks Seth.
I think I saw a couple of those Walyunga problems on crankdown productions’ videos. Andy made this one look so easy. It was just up from an arete problem… I went and tried it and couldn’t even do the first move. Didn’t know if those “nail problems” had names or grades so I hadn’t included them.
I think there was a video of “In Your Dreams” too right? I’ll add all those in too.
Wow. When you put the list together you can see WA has some pretty good problems.
Goyds
I gave Savage bliss v7 and love the gay banter v5….so don’t know where those grades came from?
Schnauzer was given v6 by Hank.
Mark did a v14 but noone saw it and we could never find it again…
Emil is retired now and people should be discouraged from stroking his ego by inflating his accomplishments.
Goyds
Seth
Goyd’s you should dust off your beanie, E and I are going to nurse our broken old bodies back to health and kick of the Perth Bouldering Revolution number 2 any moment now…
I’m all for deflating the achievements of others, savage bliss should be v6 and gay banter v4.
Mike, not sure the walyunga lines had names, steve may know…
Mike
Thanks for the info!
I got the grades from the guides I found online. The “not so mini millars guide” or whatever gave the grades but some had question marks (which I put in). Savage Bliss was V9 in a post called Information for a Traveling Boulderer by Luke B. I’ll adjust my little list though. Thanks again.
oh and V14?! wow. is that for real?
just read what seth wrote– if these grades keep dropping I’ll be able to do a lot of them. maybe someone else could say savage bliss is V5? that’d be about right for me.
Luke B
Yeh I quoted the grade from the Millars mini guide. In the list of problems it was called V8/9, and in the photo caption V9.
Is it a particularly stiff V7 to warrant upgrading, or is the guide totally wrong?
Seth
V7 is probably about right.
It’s a bit style specific. Those that have done it did so quickly. If it doesn’t suit you then it would probably feel staunch.
Joshua
Hi,
To answer your question…
There has been repeats of the harder problems inc Thin Grin and the V9’s, myself been one of them.
You can add the Smily Face project at Boulder Rock (prob #3) as it has been sent by jay… Its called Smily Face (v11).
Luke B
Wow, nice work Jay…
While we’re about Boulder Rock, any ideas on the grade of The Baked Nipple and The Press (post crystal breakage)?
Saw the video of Andy sending them, they look hard?
Mike
great info– cool that there is a V11 in town. I’ll add that in too and post the revised list in a few weeks.
also i put a comment about the new Perth Rock Climbing Guide up but it didn’t get posted for some reason. I was asking if they would incorporate some of the bouldering guides’ info in the back of the book or something because the last edition had very little about bouldering and there are quite a few mini guides floating around… would be cool if it was all in one book
what do you guys reckon about that idea?
Ross
I would like to include bouldering in the guidebook, yes. It will rely on the authors of miniguides giving me their consent to reproduce their stuff in the Perth Guide as I would not have time to rewrite it myself.
Jay
Hay hay hay v11 it is probably v10, untill someone can confirm with a second ascent.Dont be so hasty with the numbers game.
Robin
If anyone’s keen to have at go at some of these, I’d love to come out with you.
Happy to share petrol, but haven’t got my own car. Haven’t yet touched outdoors rock in Australia, but I’m here for a few months…
Free on the weekends (except this one)
email: [email protected]
phone: 0450 236 566
Luke B
I met Andy at Boulder Rock a while ago, he said that Baked Nipple went at a very approximate V7. Anyway, can probably be added to the list.
Mike
thanks Luke, I was actually just revising the list last night… i’ll put that in there and then post it soon.
m
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