Left of Month of Sundays. Start up loose rock left of first bolt (optional stick clip). Pass 2nd bolt with a hard move. Dyno through the roof (although it’s not the only way). Tricky moves with the anchor at you nose. Best clipped when you reach the jugs above.
Neil Gledhill Apr 08
It goes without saying that it starts up the obvious choss pile and has a multitude of drilled holds and is bolted to suit Neils and Neils only. Feedback on the grade welcome as after top roping it for the last 2 years I really don’t know what I’m on about…
Did Vombatia on the weekend. Didnt manage the OS but got it second go. Actually quite hard if you cant reach through the crux and have to go left to a slopy crimp then back right. How did you do it Neil. Actually a good route if not for the mega blocks about to come off the start! 24/5 if medium or short height. 16 if your tall.
I can reach the good incut crimper from the sidepull which helps.
If you are short it may not be possible at all – hence the slopey crimp way. I saw nick do it like that. It probably would have been easier if he didn’t have such skinny arms…..
The route right of Matt’s “Running of the Bulls” was done by Kate last year and is 25/26 and worth a go. It is called “The Alchemist”. I think its more like 26. Feedback welcome… 🙂
24 for Neil and me. 25 if you need to go to the left slopey crimp that Logan mentions. Tricky moves with anchor at nose can be surmounted by going R and mantling with L hand.
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