Wilyabrup – questions about new routes / bolts?

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  • #4706 Reply
    Brett Dennis

      A couple of new routes / lines of bolts have popped up on the northern buttresses at Wilyabrup. Does anybody have any more information to offer?

      I think bolting was done Friday or Saturday (08/09 Dec), when I walked past on Sunday morning, lower bolts were flagged with pink tape, apparently while glue-set or awaiting first ascent. Yesterday (Sun 17 Dec) tape was gone, indicating routes had been climbed. Bolts are glue-in SS hex heads, quite close to existing lines.

      Lines in question are:

      The Terrace – in between Finish Fatale & Thrice Bitten, about 5BR’s straight up face, two on lower face, three above small overhang. Looks about 17/18.

      Banana Wall – in between Corpus Delecti & Baited Frenzy, several BR’s in lower face, without close inspection, look like the line of Baited Frenzy. About 18.

      Also, while this is old business, does anybody know some history of the far northern buttress at Wilyabrup. This is not the buttress above with the lines Banana Split, Dessert, Corpus etc but another buttress about 800m further north right at the beach itself. About 20m high, with a large distinct square roof and much loose rock at the top. Has about 4 or 5 easy natural lines. After climbing there found six bolts scattered around top, at least five very dodgy being placed into unsecure blocks, placements reeked of some of the shit bolting that has perforated the main area clifftop. Bolts were a combo of glue-in hex head with fixed plate and P’s. When testing one P bolt, it pulled out cleanly with little persuasion from my nut tool!! Has this site just been used as an abseiling / top roping site or have routes been led here?

      And one more query. Bobs Hollow, southern buttress, line between Shaved Cat & Mr Grey, small U’s heading up smooth white wall to lower off’s. Looks bloody hard, anybody know about this route?

      #4707 Reply
      Neil

        there are three new lines at the northern crag, all have been done and will be written up properly sometime…

        1) between corpus delecti and baited frenzy. some bolts, some trad.

        2) between the 17 and the rarely climbed, but quiet fun (and runout) 22 on the terrace. all bolts (+cams if you’re timid). can’t remember the names of the routes either side… they might be the ones brett mentions.

        3) just left of precious metal, ~ gr 24. all bolts.

        no idea about the cr*p bolts you mention at the northern northern crag.

        bob’s line is a bolted proj… anybodies guess on the garde, but if it was <30ish i’d say it would be done by now… 😛

        #4708 Reply
        Shannon

          As far as I know Pat Turner has a project going next to Mr Grey, probably the one you are talking about.

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