Northern sector at wilys.
All routes are further north of peach face and require trad belays.

“True north” 10m gr10
Enjoyable and well protected climbing up the obvious right facing corner crack 5m left of Missing Frog.
L. G-Bags, C. Wiggins. 10/01/15

“Graciousness” 15m gr18*
A good alternate finish to MF. Climb the crack to the ledge, clip the bolt (hanger required) then head up and right into a nice position. Up to the top passing a slot for a small cam.
C. Wiggins, K. Seewarj 10/01/15

“Naming rights” 15m gr22*
Traverse out right from the start of MF. Sustained climbing up past the bolt and steep fingercrack, through the bulge and onto the big ledge. Step left a metre or so and finish up the short face and bottomless arête past a bolt (hanger required). Take cams from micro and wires.
K. Hartley, C. Johnson 10/01/15

“Ain’t no slouch” 15m gr20
Good fun. Start at MF but continue the rightwards traverse along the horizontal break until under the base of the flared, bottomless overhanging chimney/groove. Steep jamming past the large chockstone into the black groove. Thrutch and bridge through this to the big ledge. Finish up the middle of the short face past a bolt on nice rock.
K. Hartley, C. Johnson. 10/01/15

Playground (Lost Buttress)

“Thug life” 6m gr12
On the right hand wall of the gully where the main buttress starts.
Up the short face on nice holds finishing up the left facing corner crack.
L. G-Bags, K. Hartley. 19/04/15

“Tunnel vision” 8m gr18*
Starts 5m right of TL and ascends the tallest section of the buttress via the thin crack and overhang.. Steep to start with good holds and gear. Mantle and fingerlock your way past the thin crack then step left and climb the small roof.
K. Hartley, L. G-Bags. 19/04/15

“Tubular swells” 7m gr18
Starts just left of the big hanging rock halfway along the cliff. Sustained climbing up the steep wall and left trending fingercrack, finishing up the overhang on incut jugs.
K. Hartley, L. G-Bags. 19/04/15

“Chimpanzee” 7m gr9
Up the well featured face about 5m left of the chimney at the southern end of the crag. Up the wall to the horizontal break, step left and finish up the obvious crack .
T.Warren, R. Morgan
19/04/15

“Cookie monster” 7m gr12
Starts 4m right of the hanging rock. Up the face to the vertical crack, then trend right to the top.
T. Warren, R. Morgan. 19/04/15

Worth a visit and soon to be included in the new guide is an area further south of Lost Buttress called The Bookshelf. It has been extensively developed and contains around 40 short trad routes on excellent rock. Grades range from 6 to 21 and it would have to be one of the best cliffs around for the novice trad climber. It also boasts a few good test pieces for the moderate leader with the roof routes a must do/try..
There are no bolts here and a standard rack will be fine..
Access via Lost buttress or Northern blocks at wilys with the walk-in taking 10-15 minutes. Conditions are better when the swell is small. Enjoy!