- This topic has 9 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 8 years, 1 month ago by Dirk K.
-
AuthorPosts
-
NeilGuest
Kate and I replaced the DBB anchor at the top of Fryaway on the weekend.
And also the only bolt on The Rack.All old bolts were carbon steel bolts with stainless hangers. The bolts at the top of Fryaway were long and probably ok. But the bolt on The Rack was tiny and a bit of a worry ! The bolts looked identical from the outside…. And no we didn’t snap the tiny one off in the removal process. It was either snapped 25years ago during installation or had corroded through sometime since then.
All new bolts FIXE SS expansions with SS hangers.
NeilGuestOh yes, and someone else has put two new sets of anchor bolts in (expansions with hangers).
One set at the top of Deception, which is kind of handy if you are lazy.
And one set at the top of the Solstice boulder, which is a bit of a luxury as the natural belay was easy enough. Same could be said for the Fryaway anchors too I suppose, but they were historic 🙂
If anyone wants to help out on the next cool day there is plenty to do on the Eastern Slabs at Darlington.
PeterGuestWow! That little bolt is pretty scary looking! Awesome work guys =)
GeorgeGuestnice work guys.
NeilGuestSome more rebolting was done on the weekend At Darlington – Eastern Slabs.
The routes might be a bit dusty from drill/rock dust until it rains. So be careful.
Blackhead
3 carrot bolts replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers.
Still has trad belay which seemed appropriate, but I am open to comment.Bongo Man
2 carrot belay replaced with SS expansion bolts and SS lower-offCalling the Savage
3 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers. Shares new lower-off with Bongo ManWild Honey Pie
Rusty lower-off replaced with new SS expansions and SS lower-offLucky Legs
2 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers. Shares new lower-off with Wild Honey PieStomping Ground
1 carrot replaced with S expansion bolt and hangerCaptain Funkmayer
Rusty lower-off replaced with new SS expansions and SS lower-offTotal Cost:
2 people x 3 hours each
Equipment wear and tear
2 drill bits $12 each
3 lower-offs $20 each
15 expansion bolts $4 each
9 hangers $4 eachTOTAL $180
Hangers donated by anonymous Hangout benefactor. Thanks !
OLD rusty lower-offs:
NEW stainless steel lower-offs:
Trinkets:
EricGuestThanks Neil
NeilGuestMore rebolting.
I personally don’t mind carrots. But these ones (and the ones above) are almost always ~20year old glue in hybrid carrots. I.e a ground and tapered bolt bashed into a hole with some glue. The problem is the glue is terrible now and has crumbled away and doesn’t seem to be working anymore. And the bash in interference fit of the carrot doesn’t work due to poor initial installation (often bottoming out in the hole preventing proper wedging) and previously being wedged partly by the glue which is now failing. These problems don’t apply to the Boya Boys and their carrots.
The message here is – if you are bolting, use best practice glue (re500) or expansions bolts. SS goes without saying… mild steel or plated steel not acceptable.
Any Q’s please let me know, I am happy to help. Ross is also a good source of info.
Deception
4 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangersAxial Order
1 carrot replaced with SS expansion bolt and hangerAxial Disorder
2 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangersPogue Mahone
1 carrot replaced with SS expansion bolt and hangerTotal Cost:
2 people x 2 hours each
Equipment wear and tear
8 expansion bolts $4 each
8 hangers $4 each
TOTAL $64Ross WeiterGuestI must admit I am responsible for quite a few of the rusty maillons around the place. When I was placing them I have foolishly assumed that because they had the UIAA and strength stamped, therefore they were for outdoor climbing, therefore they were stainless steel. NOT SO!!!!! Be very careful buying maillons in any of the climbing shops and gyms around Perth, as most likely they are just plated carbon steel, for indoor only, and will rust outside no matter how far from the ocean you place them (eg the ones in Darlington rusted also). Stainless 316 maillons can be bought online for less than $4 each, I tend to go for a reputable online hardware store rather than ebay, to avoid imitation materials.
And thanks very much to Neil. I owe him a few maillons! (if you don’t know what a maillon is use Google, ’tis a French term….)
DenaGuestThanks Neil.
Climbing Anchors have a good range of maillons (though they may not be cheapest source) and CAWA members receive a 12.5% discount.
Dirk KGuestNeil next time heading out to re-bolt let me know as happy to commit time and materials (dfklicker@gmail.com)
-
AuthorPosts