As a first for CAWA, we have a combined bouldering and climbing event!
It’s a great opportunity for climbers wanting to transition to outdoor to learn the basics of bouldering outdoors.
Peter will be running a mini-workshop in the morning to go through basics such as boulder pad placement, building landings and effective spotting.
There are numerous boulders at a range of grades so you’ll be sure to have fun.
If you’ve had enough bouldering, you could jump on a rope and do some climbing! There are over 200 routes at Wilyabrup with 3-star classics such as Banana Split – 13, Hope – 14, One for the Road – 18, Stainless Steel – 21 and KGB – 26 to name a few.
For those interested in learning to set up top ropes, Jiri will be running a mini-workshop in the mornings going through what gear you need, how to set up a top rope where there are bolted anchors as well as with trad anchors.
If you are looking at getting into trad climbing, there’s an opportunity to second a trad climb, getting familiar with the process, effective communication and how to clean gear.
It’ll be a great 3 days of fun whether you want to boulder, climb or just to starfish!
A big bonus is that camping fees for Gracetown caravan park will be covered by your CAWA membership! Yes, that’s right… FREE CAMPING!
Spots are limited so get in early and register here.
Have you been wanting to further your outdoor climbing skills?!
Want to learn how to safely set up a toprope say at Wilyabrup or know useful rescue techniques that you can have in your back pocket in the event of an emergency or even how to haul your seconder when struggling through the crux of a climb?
CAWA together with Adventure Out is proud to announce our Skills Workshop on Saturday 9th November where we’ll be going through:
– Safely setting up a toprope anchor – Setting up effective anchors that you can escape if necessary – Rescue techniques, scenarios and hauling
This would be perfect for adventure climbers who want to learn to be self-sufficient for when things go pear-shaped, for sport climbers who want to set up topropes, belay from the top and progress into multi-pitch sport climbing and for beginner climbers who would like to transition to outdoor climbing.
Since it’s almost the end of the Kalbarri season, we’re going to get the place spic and span! This is not a special trip, but for those already in the area. Join us at 12pm at the climber’s campsite. Gloves and bags provided, and prizes to be won! Email Elinor or Shevaun to let us know you’ll be helping out.
(Please remember in general to aim to reduce your impact at all our spectacular crags. Pack out what you brought in, and clean off those tick marks!)
Join us for the September long weekend! Eaglestone Rock offers moderate
sport, mixed, and trad routes on nicely-textured granite, and is
situated on an expansive salt lake (get up early for a sunrise; you
won’t regret it!)
A 3.5 hour drive from Perth will take you to bulletproof granite with good face climbing and edges. With over 30 bolted, trad and mixed lines there is truly something for everyone; in particular, there are some excellent moderate routes. Abseil stations are positioned on top of the major boulders. Classics include **Wishbone (17), **Capachow (19), * Pink Rings (18) ** and Ithica (22). So be sure to check out your Perth Rock Climbing Guide or The Crag for route and access information.
Camping at Eaglestone is super easy, with the campground only a stone’s throw away from the crag. There is the luxury of a drop toilet, so no need to pack a shovel. However, there are no other facilities or water so you will need to be completely self-sufficient. A guide of what to bring:
Cooking & camping gear, including plenty of water
Warm clothing for night
You don’t need a 4WD but there is a short section of dirt road, followed by a section of good sand track easily accessible by 2WD.
With the number of new climbing gyms opening up in Perth, the popularity of climbing and bouldering indoors has grown exponentially.
When I first started climbing indoors, learning the ropes outdoors was essentially going along with a more experienced climber and entrusting them to know what they are doing and will put your safety first. I was pretty fortunate however not everyone may have that opportunity. With the abundance of information available on the internet these days, it’s just as easy to watch a Youtube video in the morning and go climbing outdoors for the first time by noon. You don’t know what you don’t know and being oblivious, you could be putting yourself or others at risk.
The “Transition to Climbing Outdoors” Workshop was an idea to bridge the gap between the indoors and out, a workshop to help people gain confidence to safely venture out on their own and enjoy what the outdoors has to offer.
Our first “Transition to Climbing Outdoors” Workshop was held on Saturday 14th September at Mountain Quarry, Perth’s local outdoor gym. Through theory and practical activities, our team of 8 volunteers shared the importance of preparation, communication and awareness when we go climbing. As well as the attitude we should be bringing to the rock, learning how to use our equipment to safely climb up, clean anchors and come back down.
Safety is an attitude that we choose to carry and begins days before we jump in the car. We shared the importance of preparation, such as understanding the expected weather conditions as well as how to tease out vital information from route descriptions. A show and tell pointing out different types of bolts on the rock and passing around some dodgy bolts gave the participants an awareness of what they should they be looking out for. The importance of effective communication on the rock and common misunderstandings, how to safely belay when climbing outdoors as well as last-minute checks before leaving the ground highlighted the importance of preparation.
The afternoon practical session focused around understanding what to
do when we reach a bolt and when we reach the anchor. All participants practiced
cleaning the anchors multiple times on the ground before cleaning a climb with
the support from their instructor hanging by their side.
The workshop received really positive feedback from both the
participants and community and we’d like to thank everyone for their support,
it means a lot to the team.
Words Roberta Stacey and Heidi Nistelberger, pictures Jiri Stastny
The first long weekend of 2019, saw the CAWA members head down to Wilyabrup. Three full days, of climbing trad and sport on three different places on the wall. Many personal challenges were attempted and achieved, a lot of abseiling for the best photo opportunities were taken and new friendships were made.
It started off
with the group heading down and setting up camp on Friday. Staying at
Gracetown camping grounds. Off to a shaky start of firstly thinking
we will not all fit in the campsite, and then Veronika’s losing her
girls’, Ariana and Amelie, sleeping bags on the drive down;
however, we all banded together and ensured there was enough space
for all the tents, vans and had enough sleeping gear for all.
Day 1, Saturday
After a leisurely start to the day the group split up into cars and headed to the main Wilyabrup cliff. Jiri set up 4 top ropes spanning a range of grades which kept the climbers occupied for the first half of the day, including “Hope” (14) that Dave used to warm up his trad skills. The group were treated to the sight of a large pod of dolphins cruising the shallows as they commenced their climbs. Following lunch, Jiri and Peter set up some new lines further along the wall with more challenging routes including “Woman Accept It For What It Is” (20) and “Waterfall’s Second Folly Direct Start” (17). Lunch (for those of us who remembered it) was an on-the-go affair whilst looking out to the sea, then more suncream was lathered on and it was time to tackle some routes ranging from 17 to low 20s.
The climbing went well into the late afternoon… There´s nothing quite like the colours of the Wilyabrup cliffs as the day draws to a close. The climbers returned to camp hungry and satisfied with the first day of climbs. A few wines and dinners ranging from instant Indian curries to gourmet homemade meatballs and the group settled in for a night of friendly chatter.
Day 2, Sunday
Jiri took the group to the Northern part of the crag, Banana Wall. Here we were met by Lance, who decided to warm up on “Digital Delecti” (**18), which was followed by Veronika (mum), Heidi and others. In the meantime, top anchors were set for “Corpus Delecti” (**18) and “Use No S.L.D.’s” (***19). Both of these climbs were climbed by the group and it was noted at the variety of styles used by each climber to successfully make it to the top. Peter and Andrew warmed up leading the classic on the wall “Banana Split” (**14). Greg and Dave couldn’t resist and gave it a go as well. Young Veronika, who has come over from Slovakia to be with her family, Veronika, Ariana and Amelie, has not climbed much before and attempted “Corpus Delecti” with confidence. She made an impression on the group with her determination to try and work out the climbs and also as an encourager for the other climbers.
After a late
lunch, Greg, Dave and Roberta headed around the corner past the Peach
Face crag and trad lead “Missing Frog” (16). A simple error,
which can be noted as a learning point, was made when Greg was
setting up top anchor and Dave was teaching Roberta how to remove
tricams from the wall. Greg pulled the whole rope through as Roberta
hadn’t tied into the end. Thankfully we were on a very safe place
and Greg could either walk out or he was able to throw the rope over
for Roberta to tie in. She was successfully able to second the route
and remove all of Greg’s gear safely. Dave and Andrew then lead and
cleaned the route, which is a big feat as this was Dave’s second
lead trad since returning to climbing after a few years.
The end of the day saw Peter and Jir climbing “Dessert” (***25), while the group watched on and encouraged from the bouldering rock (10m away) or at the base. Always good to watch Jiri’s graceful moves linked with his grunts he needs to get past the crux.
Heidi and both Veronikas with the girls had to leave today and head
back to Perth. Day 2 ended with everyone else heading back to camp,
to share in the simple camping meals and a bottle of the “top
shelf” (Gralyn) red wine and chat until the stars came out.
Day 3, Monday
The last day of the trip became a half day, however, not without its great memories and achievements. When the group arrived in the morning, they split up into their climbing partners and went to different places. Roberta teamed up with Greg. They warmed up on “Hope” (*14 trad), which did have some scary sections as the lower half was greasy with the salt spray and then a slab run-out of 10 m at the top. However, the team flashed it.
Jason ended up trad leading “One for the road” (***18 trad). He was strong until the overhang got the better on him. After putting his trad gear placement to the test (which held successfully and beautifully) with several slips and falls and also capturing the best photos of the day, he decided to head down and let others complete the climb and set up the top anchor. Roberta was then coerced to clean the route. She completed her first outdoor overhang, with the assistance of her top belayer. The moment of completion was celebrated with a range of emotions from shouting at Jason to not take photos, to then laughing at her freak out retrospectively.
heading back to Perth, Greg decided to attempt the same climb “One
for the road” on a top rope. He did require 2 attempts to get over
the roof over the climb; however, he showed everyone up by carrying a
10kg backpack while doing the climb.
trip brought together climbers from different climbing groups and
also allowed for each one to challenge themselves in where they were
at. Not only are these trips valuable for climbing, but also for
meeting new people and forming new climbing friendships. This first
trip for 2019 was definitely one of those.
Here is an update and some general house keeping issues.
THE Z-BEND WILL BE CLOSED FOR CONSTRUCTION FROM THE 4TH OF JUNE.
This means there will be no-access (camping or parking) to Z-bend. This is expected to last about 3 months. The rangers have kindly offered to make exceptions for registered climbers, subject to the approval of the construction site team.
To apply for this exemption, it will be best to email the senior ranger Mike Paxman email@example.com using this multi-day registration form .
GENERAL HOUSE KEEPING
1- Remember that no toilet waste is allowed within 500m of the Promenade / Rock wallaby site. Therefore, it’s best to use the toilet facilities at the Z Bend carpark before hiking down the gorge.
No toilet waste area around The Promenade site.
2- Since the rediscovery of the rare Black Footed Rock Wallabies in 2015, camping is not permitted in the gorge within 1.5Km of the Z Bend Lookout – this includes the area around the Promenade climbing site.
3- However, there is a camping area near the Z Bend car park that is set aside for school groups, but the privilege is also extended to climbers. We are, however, on thin ice here so please register by completing the multi-day registration form and emailing it to either Mike Paxman firstname.lastname@example.org (Senior Ranger) or Lisa Gould email@example.com.
4- Climbers new to Kalbarri may phone the Kalbarri National Park Office to get directions to the alternate camping area (it is not sign posted).
Map of the alternative campsite adjacent to the Z Bend carpark
5- Immediately close the gate behind you when driving in and out of the alternative camping area near the Z Bend carpark. The campsite is 200 metres past the gate. Please use a designated site (first come first serve) and stay away from the vegetation regrowth and rehab area (short bushes and trees held up by sticks within the campsite) and do NOT pitch a tent there.
6- The campsite has no water and all rubbish must be taken out of the park. There are drop-toilets at the campsite and at the car park.
7- Due to the elevated risk of bushfire in the sandplain areas no open fires is allowed in the alternative camping area (gas cookers only).
8- Last but not least, remember to limit the use of excess chalk (especially on overhanging walls) and systematically brush it before you leave the site – the same goes for boulderers venturing on virgin rocks! Also, try not to use any chalk in high traffic areas such as the river trail / Aviary / Tourist wall.
A Park Entry fee of $12 per car and a camping fee of $8 per night per person apply.
The Park Entry can be paid for by credit card on the all-hours machine available at the main entrance of the park (just off Ajana-Kalbarri road). However, the camping fees must be paid for by cash stuffed in an envelope and inserted into the box next to the above mentioned machine.
For those of us who suffer the Tumblagooda Fever and need their regular fix of sandstone, you can wave the car entry fee by opting for the DPAW Annual All Parks Pass (Standard: $92): https://parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/know/park-passes
Following are the phone numbers for the Kalbarri National Park Office and the Rangers Mike and Russell. Please direct all general enquiries to the Kalbarri National Park Office. The Rangers numbers are there FOR EMERGENCIES ONLY.
Kalbarri National Park Office: 08 9937 1140 – 08 993 7114 (fax)