Have you been wanting to further your outdoor climbing skills?!
Want to learn how to safely set up a toprope say at Wilyabrup or know useful rescue techniques that you can have in your back pocket in the event of an emergency or even how to haul your seconder when struggling through the crux of a climb?
CAWA together with Adventure Out is proud to announce our Skills Workshop on Saturday 26th October where we’ll be going through:
– Safely setting up a toprope anchor – Setting up effective anchors that you can escape if necessary – Rescue techniques, scenarios and hauling
This would be perfect for adventure climbers who want to learn to be self-sufficient for when things go pear-shaped, for sport climbers who want to set up topropes, belay from the top and progress into multi-pitch sport climbing and for beginner climbers who would like to transition to outdoor climbing.
Since it’s almost the end of the Kalbarri season, we’re going to get the place spic and span! This is not a special trip, but for those already in the area. Join us at 12pm at the climber’s campsite. Gloves and bags provided, and prizes to be won! Email Elinor or Shevaun to let us know you’ll be helping out.
(Please remember in general to aim to reduce your impact at all our spectacular crags. Pack out what you brought in, and clean off those tick marks!)
Join us for the September long weekend! Eaglestone Rock offers moderate
sport, mixed, and trad routes on nicely-textured granite, and is
situated on an expansive salt lake (get up early for a sunrise; you
won’t regret it!)
A 3.5 hour drive from Perth will take you to bulletproof granite with good face climbing and edges. With over 30 bolted, trad and mixed lines there is truly something for everyone; in particular, there are some excellent moderate routes. Abseil stations are positioned on top of the major boulders. Classics include **Wishbone (17), **Capachow (19), * Pink Rings (18) ** and Ithica (22). So be sure to check out your Perth Rock Climbing Guide or The Crag for route and access information.
Camping at Eaglestone is super easy, with the campground only a stone’s throw away from the crag. There is the luxury of a drop toilet, so no need to pack a shovel. However, there are no other facilities or water so you will need to be completely self-sufficient. A guide of what to bring:
Cooking & camping gear, including plenty of water
Toilet paper
Warm clothing for night
You don’t need a 4WD but there is a short section of dirt road, followed by a section of good sand track easily accessible by 2WD.
With the number of new climbing gyms opening up in Perth, the popularity of climbing and bouldering indoors has grown exponentially.
When I first started climbing indoors, learning the ropes outdoors was essentially going along with a more experienced climber and entrusting them to know what they are doing and will put your safety first. I was pretty fortunate however not everyone may have that opportunity. With the abundance of information available on the internet these days, it’s just as easy to watch a Youtube video in the morning and go climbing outdoors for the first time by noon. You don’t know what you don’t know and being oblivious, you could be putting yourself or others at risk.
The “Transition to Climbing Outdoors” Workshop was an idea to bridge the gap between the indoors and out, a workshop to help people gain confidence to safely venture out on their own and enjoy what the outdoors has to offer.
Our first “Transition to Climbing Outdoors” Workshop was held on Saturday 14th September at Mountain Quarry, Perth’s local outdoor gym. Through theory and practical activities, our team of 8 volunteers shared the importance of preparation, communication and awareness when we go climbing. As well as the attitude we should be bringing to the rock, learning how to use our equipment to safely climb up, clean anchors and come back down.
Safety is an attitude that we choose to carry and begins days before we jump in the car. We shared the importance of preparation, such as understanding the expected weather conditions as well as how to tease out vital information from route descriptions. A show and tell pointing out different types of bolts on the rock and passing around some dodgy bolts gave the participants an awareness of what they should they be looking out for. The importance of effective communication on the rock and common misunderstandings, how to safely belay when climbing outdoors as well as last-minute checks before leaving the ground highlighted the importance of preparation.
The afternoon practical session focused around understanding what to
do when we reach a bolt and when we reach the anchor. All participants practiced
cleaning the anchors multiple times on the ground before cleaning a climb with
the support from their instructor hanging by their side.
The workshop received really positive feedback from both the
participants and community and we’d like to thank everyone for their support,
it means a lot to the team.
Have you ever wanted to climb outdoors but not sure how to do so safely?
Have you ever wanted to learn through a free workshop instead of paying for a formal training course?
CAWA’s first “Transition to Outdoor Climbing” Workshop is here!!
A day of learning and sharing knowledge with experienced climbers in a fun and relaxed atmosphere. Be quick, spots are limited.
When and Where
Perth Hills on Saturday 14 September 2019 – Weather permitting
What
What gear do I need to climb outside How to read a route and route finding How to clip bolts Effective communication How to “clean” once you get to the anchor How to be a safe belayer
Words Roberta Stacey and Heidi Nistelberger, pictures Jiri Stastny
The first long weekend of 2019, saw the CAWA members head down to Wilyabrup. Three full days, of climbing trad and sport on three different places on the wall. Many personal challenges were attempted and achieved, a lot of abseiling for the best photo opportunities were taken and new friendships were made.
Heidi on “Waterfall’s Second Folly Direct Start” (17)
It started off
with the group heading down and setting up camp on Friday. Staying at
Gracetown camping grounds. Off to a shaky start of firstly thinking
we will not all fit in the campsite, and then Veronika’s losing her
girls’, Ariana and Amelie, sleeping bags on the drive down;
however, we all banded together and ensured there was enough space
for all the tents, vans and had enough sleeping gear for all.
Day 1, Saturday
Andrew getting ready for Corpus Delicti (18)
After a leisurely start to the day the group split up into cars and headed to the main Wilyabrup cliff. Jiri set up 4 top ropes spanning a range of grades which kept the climbers occupied for the first half of the day, including “Hope” (14) that Dave used to warm up his trad skills. The group were treated to the sight of a large pod of dolphins cruising the shallows as they commenced their climbs. Following lunch, Jiri and Peter set up some new lines further along the wall with more challenging routes including “Woman Accept It For What It Is” (20) and “Waterfall’s Second Folly Direct Start” (17). Lunch (for those of us who remembered it) was an on-the-go affair whilst looking out to the sea, then more suncream was lathered on and it was time to tackle some routes ranging from 17 to low 20s.
The climbing went well into the late afternoon… There´s nothing quite like the colours of the Wilyabrup cliffs as the day draws to a close. The climbers returned to camp hungry and satisfied with the first day of climbs. A few wines and dinners ranging from instant Indian curries to gourmet homemade meatballs and the group settled in for a night of friendly chatter.
Day 2, Sunday
Dave on “Missing Frog” (16)
Jiri took the group to the Northern part of the crag, Banana Wall. Here we were met by Lance, who decided to warm up on “Digital Delecti” (**18), which was followed by Veronika (mum), Heidi and others. In the meantime, top anchors were set for “Corpus Delecti” (**18) and “Use No S.L.D.’s” (***19). Both of these climbs were climbed by the group and it was noted at the variety of styles used by each climber to successfully make it to the top. Peter and Andrew warmed up leading the classic on the wall “Banana Split” (**14). Greg and Dave couldn’t resist and gave it a go as well. Young Veronika, who has come over from Slovakia to be with her family, Veronika, Ariana and Amelie, has not climbed much before and attempted “Corpus Delecti” with confidence. She made an impression on the group with her determination to try and work out the climbs and also as an encourager for the other climbers.
After a late
lunch, Greg, Dave and Roberta headed around the corner past the Peach
Face crag and trad lead “Missing Frog” (16). A simple error,
which can be noted as a learning point, was made when Greg was
setting up top anchor and Dave was teaching Roberta how to remove
tricams from the wall. Greg pulled the whole rope through as Roberta
hadn’t tied into the end. Thankfully we were on a very safe place
and Greg could either walk out or he was able to throw the rope over
for Roberta to tie in. She was successfully able to second the route
and remove all of Greg’s gear safely. Dave and Andrew then lead and
cleaned the route, which is a big feat as this was Dave’s second
lead trad since returning to climbing after a few years.
The end of the day saw Peter and Jir climbing “Dessert” (***25), while the group watched on and encouraged from the bouldering rock (10m away) or at the base. Always good to watch Jiri’s graceful moves linked with his grunts he needs to get past the crux.
Peter on “Dessert” (25)
Unfortunately,
Heidi and both Veronikas with the girls had to leave today and head
back to Perth. Day 2 ended with everyone else heading back to camp,
to share in the simple camping meals and a bottle of the “top
shelf” (Gralyn) red wine and chat until the stars came out.
Day 3, Monday
The last day of the trip became a half day, however, not without its great memories and achievements. When the group arrived in the morning, they split up into their climbing partners and went to different places. Roberta teamed up with Greg. They warmed up on “Hope” (*14 trad), which did have some scary sections as the lower half was greasy with the salt spray and then a slab run-out of 10 m at the top. However, the team flashed it.
Jason ended up trad leading “One for the road” (***18 trad). He was strong until the overhang got the better on him. After putting his trad gear placement to the test (which held successfully and beautifully) with several slips and falls and also capturing the best photos of the day, he decided to head down and let others complete the climb and set up the top anchor. Roberta was then coerced to clean the route. She completed her first outdoor overhang, with the assistance of her top belayer. The moment of completion was celebrated with a range of emotions from shouting at Jason to not take photos, to then laughing at her freak out retrospectively.
Jason on “One for the road” (18)
Just before
heading back to Perth, Greg decided to attempt the same climb “One
for the road” on a top rope. He did require 2 attempts to get over
the roof over the climb; however, he showed everyone up by carrying a
10kg backpack while doing the climb.
This climbing
trip brought together climbers from different climbing groups and
also allowed for each one to challenge themselves in where they were
at. Not only are these trips valuable for climbing, but also for
meeting new people and forming new climbing friendships. This first
trip for 2019 was definitely one of those.
Here is an update and some general house keeping issues.
THE Z-BEND WILL BE CLOSED FOR CONSTRUCTION FROM THE 4TH OF JUNE.
This means there will be no-access (camping or parking) to Z-bend. This is expected to last about 3 months. The rangers have kindly offered to make exceptions for registered climbers, subject to the approval of the construction site team.
To apply for this exemption, it will be best to email the senior ranger Mike Paxman mike.paxman@dbca.wa.gov.au using this multi-day registration form .
GENERAL HOUSE KEEPING
1- Remember that no toilet waste is allowed within 500m of the Promenade / Rock wallaby site. Therefore, it’s best to use the toilet facilities at the Z Bend carpark before hiking down the gorge.
No toilet waste area around The Promenade site.
No toilet waste area around The Promenade site.
2- Since the rediscovery of the rare Black Footed Rock Wallabies in 2015, camping is not permitted in the gorge within 1.5Km of the Z Bend Lookout – this includes the area around the Promenade climbing site.
3- However, there is a camping area near the Z Bend car park that is set aside for school groups, but the privilege is also extended to climbers. We are, however, on thin ice here so please register by completing the multi-day registration form and emailing it to either Mike Paxman mike.paxman@dbca.wa.gov.au (Senior Ranger) or Lisa Gould lisa.gould@dbca.wa.gov.au.
4- Climbers new to Kalbarri may phone the Kalbarri National Park Office to get directions to the alternate camping area (it is not sign posted).
Map of Alternative campsite adjacent to the Z-bend carpark
Map of the alternative campsite adjacent to the Z Bend carpark
5- Immediately close the gate behind you when driving in and out of the alternative camping area near the Z Bend carpark. The campsite is 200 metres past the gate. Please use a designated site (first come first serve) and stay away from the vegetation regrowth and rehab area (short bushes and trees held up by sticks within the campsite) and do NOT pitch a tent there.
6- The campsite has no water and all rubbish must be taken out of the park. There are drop-toilets at the campsite and at the car park.
7- Due to the elevated risk of bushfire in the sandplain areas no open fires is allowed in the alternative camping area (gas cookers only).
8- Last but not least, remember to limit the use of excess chalk (especially on overhanging walls) and systematically brush it before you leave the site – the same goes for boulderers venturing on virgin rocks! Also, try not to use any chalk in high traffic areas such as the river trail / Aviary / Tourist wall.
A Park Entry fee of $12 per car and a camping fee of $8 per night per person apply.
The Park Entry can be paid for by credit card on the all-hours machine available at the main entrance of the park (just off Ajana-Kalbarri road). However, the camping fees must be paid for by cash stuffed in an envelope and inserted into the box next to the above mentioned machine.
For those of us who suffer the Tumblagooda Fever and need their regular fix of sandstone, you can wave the car entry fee by opting for the DPAW Annual All Parks Pass (Standard: $92): https://parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/know/park-passes
Following are the phone numbers for the Kalbarri National Park Office and the Rangers Mike and Russell. Please direct all general enquiries to the Kalbarri National Park Office. The Rangers numbers are there FOR EMERGENCIES ONLY.
Business Hours:
Kalbarri National Park Office: 08 9937 1140 – 08 993 7114 (fax)
The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Saturday 1st of June to Monday, 3rd of June 2019.
Remi on Keith Goes Blank 15***
Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.
Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawk’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.
Access From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed and accessible by 2WD.
Weather Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.
Accommodation We have unpowered camping sites provisionally booked at Murchison Station. Please let us know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus we can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.
Registering Your Interest Now Please register by completing the online form ASAP and by 10:00 am Wednesday, 29th May. We will then send confirmation with further details.
If you have any questions about the area or the trip, please email Elinor Fleming (elinorf@climberswa.asn.au) who will be in Kalbarri to coordinate the trip.
Happy climbing!
Elinor Fleming
CAWA Ordinary Member
Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.
The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Friday, 19th to Monday, 22nd April 2019.
Remi on Keith Goes Blank 15***
Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.
Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawk’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.
We would love to see you all there. We also need to make sure that everyone is clear about what to expect of the area. Kalbarri is not an ideal venue for beginners, unless they are accompanied by a suitably experienced climber. This is because access to routes will usually require lead climbing and the ability to set up top ropes is very limited. The climbing also tends to be moderate to very hard.
Access From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed and accessible by 2WD.
Weather Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.
Accommodation We have unpowered camping sites provisionally booked at Kalbarri Z-bend car park. Please let us know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus we can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.
Registering Your Interest Now Please register by completing the online form ASAP and by 10:00 am Wednesday, 17th April. We will then send confirmation with further details.
Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Joining online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.
If you have any questions, please email both Elinor Fleming (elinorf@climberswa.asn.au) who will be in Kalbarri to coordinate the trip and me (dirkk@climberswa.asn.au) who is helping with the preparation ahead of the long weekend.
Dirk Klicker
CAWA Committee member and VP
Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.
On 12 December 2018, the Shire of Augusta Margaret River (“the Shire”) resolved to chop the bolts at Wallcliffe and to ban public access.
Therefore, the Shire currently maintains that climbing at Wallcliffe is banned.
The Shire Rangers are authorised to issue infringement notices and to confiscate climbing equipment in the event that climbers are found climbing at the crag.
The result of this decision is that we have in WA regrettably lost an iconic and irreplaceable crag in circumstances where the amount of climbing in WA is already limited. This is a wakeup call to the WA climbing community.
The minutes of the ordinary council meeting of 12 December 2018 were published on 18 December 2018 and a copy can be downloaded from the following link:
A full transcript of the deputation made on behalf of CAWA is below.
The behaviours that the Shire used to support their actions were as follows:
Leaving chalk on the cliff.
Pruning of trees at the waters edge.
Defecation in caves.
Playing of loud music in caves.
Graffiti and vandalism.
Entering the caves.
Intentional damage to vegetation.
Damage to cliffs from bolting.
Climbing outdoors is not a right but essentially a privilege that can be lost at any moment at any crag.
There are currently situations where crags are at risk of being lost in Australia and overseas. They are having some serious issues in the Grampians. According to the Access Fund US, 1 in 5 climbing areas in the US is threatened.
It is up to every climber take all reasonable steps to ensure that their conduct outdoors is such that the risk of losing a crag, especially when the number of climbers heading outdoors is steadily increasing with the popularity of climbing set to skyrocket in the next few years.
Climbers heading outdoors should be familiar with and adhere to the following:
CAWA has established an Access Subcommittee to tackle future access issues in WA.
If you have any questions about access you can e-mail CAWA directly access@climberswa.asn.au or cawa@climberswa.asn.au or e-mail any of the CAWA Committee Members or message via the CAWA Facebook Page.
Climb safely and responsibly,
Dirk Klicker
CAWA Vice President
Deputation Transcript of 12 December 2018
CAWA acknowledges the traditional owners of the Land (the Wardandi people) and would like to pay respects to the Elders past and present.
Firstly, CAWA respectfully urges the Council not to “chop the bolts”:
Climbing has taken place at Wallcliffe for nigh 30 years, most routes being set in the early 90s. There is no urgency, as they don’t affect the Council’s plans for a public viewing platform.
Wallcliffe is a key location for climbing in WA. There is only one other area of similar character of limestone climbing, where climbing is permitted by management plan. Chopping the bolts will forever close an iconic chapter of climbing history in WA.
The bolts are required to climb safely at Wallcliffe, as they are needed to protect the climber from falls.
The small heads of the climbing bolts that protrude from the cliff, would not be visible from the platform proposed. They are visible only on close inspection.
The Golder geological study and the Goode cultural study did not recommend removal. There is no report that recommends the removal or which finds that removal conflicts Shire’s plans.
The anecdotal evidence does not support removal:
Pruning of trees at the waters edge. Not climbing related.
Defecation in caves. Not climbing related.
Playing of loud music in caves. Not climbing related.
Graffiti and vandalism. It is not part of the culture of climbing. There are graffiti artists that pride themselves on putting graffiti in high places.
The only evidence of people entering the caves are permit holders. Not climbers.
Intentional damage to vegetation. Some silly do-gooder trimmed the existing access path. Not climbing related.
All of the above are addressed in the draft management plan CAWA has provided to Council and the traditional owners. No response has been received from the Council to date. The traditional owners have indicated that they are considering the draft management plan.
The investigations of Council to date are inconclusive as to the person(s) responsible for environmental damage at Walcliffe, noting the Cape to Cape Track runs adjacent and the area is reasonably popular with tourists.
In WA no other open access climbing area has a problem with bolts (e.g. Churchmans Brook, Kalbarri, Willyabrup, Albany, West Cape Howe, Bluff Knoll and Porongurup). At Albany, Porongrup and Bluff Know there is a viewing platforms. So why chop the bolts?
The bolts cannot be removed, as that would cause more damage to the cliff. The small protruding head of the bolts must be carefully ground off, some damage to the cliff is likely.
Delaying a decision to chop the bolts will permit a period of consultation and not prevent the Shire from proceeding with its proposed plans.
Secondly, CAWA respectfully urges the Council not to “ban all access”, as the following concerns have not been addressed:
A ban on access would be invalid being inconsistent with the Management Order to manage the Crown Land for the purposes of “Recreation”. A ban on access will prevent recreation including climbing. Shire’s attorneys have not addressed this issue.
Nor have the Shire’s attorneys properly addressed the legal issues raised by CAWA regarding the validity of the 2013 Determination concerning climbing or the related Determination proposed to be made today.
The Council should defer any decision on the proposed Determination pending the resolution of these serious legal issues.
Further, a ban on access is not supported by expert or anecdotal evidence. All previous reports have recommended restricted access.
With respect, Shire has not properly considered other options involving restricted access such as a management plan, codes of conduct, permits, licenses, booking systems or further education or signage.
Council proposes to move from completely free public access to a complete ban without proper consideration of options in between.
The Standing Committee overturned similar local laws in the 1990s and recommended that the Shire consult with CAWA and consider a management plan. That recommendation has not been followed and history is repeating itself.
A number of petitions protesting against the chopping of the bolts and banning access have been signed by over 300 people and presented.
A ban on public access whilst permitting access by commercial enterprises sends the wrong message.
Allowing commercial interests to profit from visiting Walcliffe is also inconsistent with the Shire’s apparent desire to rigidly protect the cultural significance of Walcliffe.
Ironically one of the current permit holders facilitates 3,000 people per annum visiting the site. Climbers would probably number no more than 200 per annum.
CAWA urges the Council to defer making the proposed Determination today, until outstanding legal issues have been resolved, and proper consultation has occurred regarding public recreational (including climbing) access in accordance with the purposes of the Reserve.
CAWA is willing to work collaboratively with the Shire and the traditional owners to find an acceptable compromise.
Thank you madam President for the opportunity to speak here today. I am now open to any questions.
