Darlington

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This topic contains 9 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Dirk K 2 years, 3 months ago.

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  • #155751 Reply

    Neil

    Kate and I replaced the DBB anchor at the top of Fryaway on the weekend.
    And also the only bolt on The Rack.

    All old bolts were carbon steel bolts with stainless hangers. The bolts at the top of Fryaway were long and probably ok. But the bolt on The Rack was tiny and a bit of a worry ! The bolts looked identical from the outside…. And no we didn’t snap the tiny one off in the removal process. It was either snapped 25years ago during installation or had corroded through sometime since then.

    bolts

    All new bolts FIXE SS expansions with SS hangers.

    #155752 Reply

    Neil

    Oh yes, and someone else has put two new sets of anchor bolts in (expansions with hangers).

    One set at the top of Deception, which is kind of handy if you are lazy.

    And one set at the top of the Solstice boulder, which is a bit of a luxury as the natural belay was easy enough. Same could be said for the Fryaway anchors too I suppose, but they were historic 🙂

    If anyone wants to help out on the next cool day there is plenty to do on the Eastern Slabs at Darlington.

    #155766 Reply

    Peter

    Wow! That little bolt is pretty scary looking! Awesome work guys =)

    #155823 Reply

    George

    nice work guys.

    #155885 Reply

    Neil

    Some more rebolting was done on the weekend At Darlington – Eastern Slabs.

    The routes might be a bit dusty from drill/rock dust until it rains. So be careful.

    Blackhead
    3 carrot bolts replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers.
    Still has trad belay which seemed appropriate, but I am open to comment.

    Bongo Man
    2 carrot belay replaced with SS expansion bolts and SS lower-off

    Calling the Savage
    3 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers. Shares new lower-off with Bongo Man

    Wild Honey Pie
    Rusty lower-off replaced with new SS expansions and SS lower-off

    Lucky Legs
    2 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers. Shares new lower-off with Wild Honey Pie

    Stomping Ground
    1 carrot replaced with S expansion bolt and hanger

    Captain Funkmayer
    Rusty lower-off replaced with new SS expansions and SS lower-off

    Total Cost:
    2 people x 3 hours each
    Equipment wear and tear
    2 drill bits $12 each
    3 lower-offs $20 each
    15 expansion bolts $4 each
    9 hangers $4 each

    TOTAL $180

    Hangers donated by anonymous Hangout benefactor. Thanks !

    OLD rusty lower-offs:

    NEW stainless steel lower-offs:

    Trinkets:

    #155887 Reply

    Eric

    Thanks Neil

    #156127 Reply

    Neil

    More rebolting.

    I personally don’t mind carrots. But these ones (and the ones above) are almost always ~20year old glue in hybrid carrots. I.e a ground and tapered bolt bashed into a hole with some glue. The problem is the glue is terrible now and has crumbled away and doesn’t seem to be working anymore. And the bash in interference fit of the carrot doesn’t work due to poor initial installation (often bottoming out in the hole preventing proper wedging) and previously being wedged partly by the glue which is now failing. These problems don’t apply to the Boya Boys and their carrots.

    The message here is – if you are bolting, use best practice glue (re500) or expansions bolts. SS goes without saying… mild steel or plated steel not acceptable.

    Any Q’s please let me know, I am happy to help. Ross is also a good source of info.

    Deception
    4 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers

    Axial Order
    1 carrot replaced with SS expansion bolt and hanger

    Axial Disorder
    2 carrots replaced with SS expansion bolts and hangers

    Pogue Mahone
    1 carrot replaced with SS expansion bolt and hanger

    Total Cost:
    2 people x 2 hours each
    Equipment wear and tear
    8 expansion bolts $4 each
    8 hangers $4 each
    TOTAL $64

    #156150 Reply

    Ross Weiter

    I must admit I am responsible for quite a few of the rusty maillons around the place. When I was placing them I have foolishly assumed that because they had the UIAA and strength stamped, therefore they were for outdoor climbing, therefore they were stainless steel. NOT SO!!!!! Be very careful buying maillons in any of the climbing shops and gyms around Perth, as most likely they are just plated carbon steel, for indoor only, and will rust outside no matter how far from the ocean you place them (eg the ones in Darlington rusted also). Stainless 316 maillons can be bought online for less than $4 each, I tend to go for a reputable online hardware store rather than ebay, to avoid imitation materials.

    And thanks very much to Neil. I owe him a few maillons! (if you don’t know what a maillon is use Google, ’tis a French term….)

    #156152 Reply

    Dena

    Thanks Neil.

    Climbing Anchors have a good range of maillons (though they may not be cheapest source) and CAWA members receive a 12.5% discount.

    #156503 Reply

    Dirk K

    Neil next time heading out to re-bolt let me know as happy to commit time and materials (dfklicker@gmail.com)

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