More new routes at Gibraltar Rock

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This topic contains 3 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Neil 2 years, 10 months ago.

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  • #107486 Reply


    On the same face as Dinosaur.

    Spangelic Upstarts 20 *** 30m
    6 bolts, boltplates needed, plus wires and small-med cams. Classic smear stemming up the scalloped runnel 100m + left of Dinosaur. Hike up past Dinosaur and the splitter crack in low-angled apron (first pitch of Delusions of Grandeur?). Keep going left along the base until under the large horizontal cave/gash. Access the nice big lower ledge under R of edge of cave. At R end of ledge where it slopes away is a 2BB (needs plates). Step right into groove, climb past 4 bolts (veer a bit R after 1st one), then small-med gear in flake to the fixed hanger DBB above the tuft of vegetation. An excellent sustained climb, much better than it looks from the ground. FA Tim Ball, Angela Separovic June 2013

    Bogan Villager 19 ** 30m
    The sharp arete left of SU. Boltplates needed, small wires and cams/microcams. Starts as per SU, ie same DBB and first bolt. Boldly run it out directly up the slabby face after 2nd bolt (crux), hit the arete past two more bolts then place small gear to top out to the fixed hanger DBB on the large ledge with spear grass, about 5m left of SU’s anchor. FA Tim Ball, Angela Separovic June 2013

    Both routes can be rapped with a single 60m rope.

    #107490 Reply


    Great work Tim. Look forward to trying them.

    #113307 Reply


    Nice climbs worth a lot of stars.
    Led by P who put them both at 18. I thought SU more scary, would have put it at 19, specially the upper natural section. Both are very interesting climbs well worth it. Not really sport climbs. Falls may hurt.
    Lower-offs are hangers, so bring some cord and maybe a Maylon.

    #155820 Reply


    Just bumping this one. Do these routes have proper anchor/lower-offs or do you still need your trinkets ?

    I note the miniguide for these routes has a warning that the bolts may be suss. All I can see in the forum’s is that the suss bolts on Dinosaur Jnr got fixed.

    What about the carrots and lower off’s (sub standard?) on the other routes ?

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