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THE SWALLOW
“The Divil Direct’ 20m gr18*
Starts from the broad ledge w
here pitch 2 of “Little divil”(not Little Devil as stated in the guide)starts.
Pitch 1 13m.From the start of the right trending crack a direct line up past 2BR’s then steeper wall above protected with small to medium cams and a BR at the crux(hangers required).
Pitch 2 As for “Little Divil”.
P. Maher & J. Nevin 17-11-2013SOUTHERN OCEAN WALL
On the undercut slab just right of the corner of The Black Wall and S.O.W.
“Happy Clam” 22m gr16
Starts from the left of the rising horizontal crack about 22m down.
Climb slightly left of the centre of the slab. The crux is just past the BR at half height.
DBB (hangers required). J. Nevin & P. Maher. 9-11-2013“Shellfish Bastard” 22m gr13
belay right of H.C.and climb the arete.
P. Maher & J. Nevin 9-11-2013“Schatz”27m gr11
Just right of the slab there is a broad wall( 2nd from B.W. & S.O.W. corner)At the right of this wall there is a wide crack which runs about 27 m down to a belay ledge.
Bridge up either side of the wide crack,then slightly left through a steeper section.Bring larger protection
up to Black Diamond #3 & #4 cams for bottom section.
J. Nevin & R. Watson 29-7-2012CAROUSEL WALL
“Anthrax Ripple” 37m gr13*
This older climb has had 2 BR’s and top belay added.
It takes the slab right of “Dairymilk Dive”. Excellent protection
in the horizontal cracks & 2BR’s.
J. Nevin, D. Egeland & D. Algie 22-12-1997THE RAFT (Vulture Street Wall)
“Dark Arts”25m gr15***
Takes a steep line up the wall around the arete right of
“Vulture Street”. Belay below the overhanging corner and take a direct line to the DBB
just right of the arete. 4 BR’s and small to medium cams plus large ones for the bottom
belay.
J. Nevin, K. Hartley & J. O’herlihy. 23-1-2011Awesome shit Jim there is life in the old dog yet.
Yeah good stuff Jim keep em coming, have started work on the miniguide for all the new stuff… Prob need some more info off you and/or Andreas plus some descriptions off John and a few more pics.. GOt few of your bolt plates nightrider and a couple slings, and found big purple, see you soon.
Hi Jim and Kym,
I have put up a few new climbs over New Year’s and so have updated the old 2003 WCH new climbs miniguide (now uploaded). If you guys have any pics (or feel free to trace lines on my Southern Ocean Wall pic) or additional stuff you may want to send them in and I can revise again. Alt – Kym if you have another miniguide then maybe we should talk about merging them?
Ross
ross dot4 weiter2 at worleyparsons dot3 com
(ignore numbers that’s just to confuse robots)Hi Jim,
I did Dark Arts over the weekend. Nice climb and very considerate bolting. Thanks a lot.
Matt
Hi Ross
I have just taken a look at the WCH mini guide that you have updated recently. I just note a correction needed – the image on page 7 (last page) shows the Throne Of The Gods area (from the day that we put up Gatling), but the label in the top-left corner calls it the Red Back Buttress, which is obviously incorrect. You may wish to correct that when you have a chance.
Thanks for providing the updated mini-guide with the new routes and descriptions/corrections, relative to South Coast Rock. The topo locations for the three new routes we did (and one variant) looks consistent with what I recall.
Conrad
Hi Jim (or who ever bolted ‘Dark Arts’),
I am wondering why you’ve placed bolts on ‘Dark Arts’? Don’t get me wrong, I think it’s great there’s a new route, however I managed to find bomber trad placements that were pretty obvious which negated the need for bolts.
The CAWA bolting code states – ‘Fixed protection may only be used on new routes where there is no possibility of arranging protection by removable means, such as slings, nuts and cams’.
The odd unnecessary bolt in a quarry is probably not a huge issue, however somewhere like WCH needs to be treated more sensitively. I also found natural placements for the anchor and there’s actually 5 bolts not 4 as in the description. ‘Vulture St’ is a great example of well placed bolts – only where necessary for runners and anchors.
I suggest that someone from CAWA needs to make an assessment on whether the bolts on ‘Dark Arts’ should be removed. No disrespect, but I want to make sure we look after places like WCH.
Regards
JonasIn reply to Jonas concerns about “Dark Arts”, we have had another look at the climb and are quite happy with it as it stands. The line is around gr 15-16 and the protection provides adequate and appropriate security for some one leading at this level without potential swinging falls into corners and trying to protect horizontal flaring cracks. While we stand by the climb ,if people have criticisms of it they probably should raise the matter with CAWA.
Jim NevinThis is now a bit of an old item, but here goes…
I climbed Dark Arts 2nd of Feb 2015 and found the bolts quite appropriate. There are opportunities for natural pro as Jonas has correctly pointed out, but as Jim has stated there are flaring horizontal cracks (in the bolted section) that would be sketchy to adequately protect for a grade 15-16 leader. Anything short of blankness has the potential for natural pro if a climber is experienced and bold enough. Dark Arts isn’t a climb for strong leaders doing well over a grade 15.
There are plenty of other 15s at WCH that would suit those doing more than 15s (I did Renaissance {15}, and found a mild runout above smallish gear that could make a grade 15 leader sweat). I guess the point I’m trying to make is… grading is subjective. D’uh! No surprises there. For argument’s sake, Carousel is a 15 with similar flaring horizontal cracks in places, minus the bolts, but doesn’t have quite the same “ground fall” potential. (Apart from falling into the ocean!! If absolutely all your gear and your belay anchor fails, and you aren’t tied into the abseil line. And your abseil line/anchor also fails.Ouch.) The arguments could go on forever.
There are 5 ring bolts, not 4 – something to be corrected in the mini guide eventually. And yes, you could set up a natural anchor. It is nice though to have the ring bolts (not obvious to the general public) to abseil off, in addition to the older bolts nearby over Vulture St needing bolt plates.
A sweet climb Jim.Just to clarify, both grading and the need for bolts can be subjective. Some bolts totally aren’t necessary and WCH is indeed a sensitive area to be bolted with care and consideration. The bolts on this particular climb are considerate.
