Peak Charles

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This topic contains 5 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Hammond 4 years, 11 months ago.

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  • #37710 Reply

    maadster

    The first stop on my ‘financially wrong but spiritually correct’ road trip was Peak Charles. I hadn’t been there for afew years and was impressed with the way DEC has set up the camp ground area as i was able to find a nice campsite out of the wind quite easily, but then again, i was the only person there! But the next morning i went for a walk  up to have a look at some of the climbs i had done on my last/first trip there. Firstly i walked an easier way than last time way up to Spartacus and as i looked at the run out section i wondered if all those half broken edges were all broken now or would break the next time climbed, and then made my way over to Juluka ….. now along the way i noticed 2 bolts with hangers that looked like lower offs in a section near ‘ The Old and The Bold’ (i think) and then noticed a half pulled out then smashed half sideways expansion bolt on the slab i was walking along. All quite new looking!   My main concern was when i got to Central Gully, there was about 4 new s/s 10mm bolts with hangers next to a crack system that led up to the Juluka overhang with the first being at waist height, but also to the left of this right in the corner were another 3 10mm bolts with hangers next to good trad gear placements. Now i haven’t climbed for a couple of years but i was able to climb up past these bolts no problems in my new Evolv approach shoes (quite nice ) and then down climb after realising that this was a bad move.         So who the fuck put these in?

    #37769 Reply

    Hammond

    Doesn’t matter where they came from. Next time we’ll take an extra small angle grinder.

    #38319 Reply

    maadster

    Actually it does matter, as it is important to find out why the douche bag put them there in the first place. If i stop there on my way back in a couple of months, i will take my angle grinder up there, cut them off and tek screw them onto the notice board.   But the strange thing is that i didn’t see any more further up when i climbed up past them, so i hope i won’t have to bring extra cutting blades with me if the return to finish their bolt ladder.

    #40552 Reply

    John boy

    I was up there with a bunch of Albany climbers a couple of months back and found that expansion bolt on the slab on our way to central gully.it wasn’t half pulled out that is how it was placed with just the start of the bolt in and most of the bolt hanging out there were strike marks on the top looks like someone put in the wrong sized hole and tried to mash it in like a carrot.we thought it a joke that was not funny.one of our guys lacking the right tools bent it over so it could not be used as you would surely plummet to your death.we will pull it properly and patch the hole when we go back in march.there is a obvious hand crack to protect the access to central gully 10ft from that bolt.crazy stuff

    #43706 Reply

    David Wyndham

    I was up there last weekend and saw the line of bolts to the right of Juluka. We climbed through these as the first pitch of Last Tango In Widgiemooltha to see what the deal was, it’s a full line of bolts placed about 5′ apart going all the way up to the slab under Guano roof where there is a three-bolt anchor. All 25KN Petzl expansion bolts, and all next to amazingly good trad placements.

    #43850 Reply

    Hammond

    Chop them.

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