Ross Weiter has written a new mini-guide for Cape Le Grande near Esperance. It has been posted to the Miniguides and Cape Le Grande pages.
Thanks go to Ross for his continued dedication to producing quality mini-guides.
Ross Weiter has written a new mini-guide for Cape Le Grande near Esperance. It has been posted to the Miniguides and Cape Le Grande pages.
Thanks go to Ross for his continued dedication to producing quality mini-guides.
Thanks for the mini guide Ross, … I didnt get a chance to comment on the draft but for what its worth my comments follow
As far as grades go i don’t believe L’esperance is 18 … I climbed it with 5 others who have climbed around the world and we all thought 16 was about right. Its still a fine route, but if thats an 18 then Flying Kiwis is a 20 (which it isn’t , its 18).
Roaring forties is an 18, not 19, or else you’ll have to increase the grade of There she blows which is solid 19 (especially if you finish direct to the top as per the original route description). My hunch is that Verlaine encroaches on this route and has dulled the challenge of what was a fairy sporty but safe and exciting runout to the top?
Shanes 21 with the dubious sling is pretty serious, the sling is worthless , none of us bothered placing it as if we fell we’d rip off the flake and nail the belayer, so we all ran it out which is ok but serious as a fall would place you on the deck. A point which might be worth making in the guide. Its an excellent route but in its current state worth mentioning its serious
As I relayed in my comments on this site, and emails to you, the missing bolts on Wheres my cyclone are explained, the only drill bit I had busted .. its a bit disappointing to read your comment about the missing bolts in the guide. As you know I had offered to provide bolts and hangers to anyone able to get down there and complete the bolting. So the offer still stands if anyones heading that way drop me an email and I’ll get you the gear. Its a classic and deserves to be completed otherwise as I mentioned earlier pre clip the lowest bolt from abseil and its still pretty staunch. Hopefully I will make it down there again this summer and tidy it up.
Nameless is a great route, 23 if finished direct (with the 23 move being the last one) or sustained 21 if you do as I did and clip the last bolt and make a rising traverse to the notch on the right. John Miller also lead this variation.
Its also worth stressing that rapping Kiwi wall is 28m, so rapping off a 50m rope doubled could land you in a world of hurt. Rob was lucky to escape injury when he abseiled off the ends of his ropes on our first trip there.
It will be great to get back down there and climb the new routes you have described, cheers
Ed
Thanks Ed. Some comments on your comments. I agree with Rob that LE is 18. You yourself stated that RF is 18/19, (2Feb11 post) so whatever. Sling on Shanes 21 is not worthless, I placed it and it would be good enough for rest or very small fall. Bolt would be more appropriate though. It is WMC that is disappointing, not my comments, I shall update description as soon as it is fixed. Rapping comment is good, will incl. in next rev. Good crag. See ya. Ross
Grades will always be fuel for debate, a number here or there dosnt really matter
but it is important when publishing guides that the grades at a given crag are as consistent as possible. In other words the grade 18’s, or 20’s at a crag should be very similar in terms of difficulty.
So in the case above my point is that if Le esperance is 18, then the other 18’s there should be upgraded, because they are much harder … and then you’ll need to look at the 19’s … anyway, whatever if its 18 then its the softest 18 in WA so a good tick for those trying the grade
As a philosophical point of view if a climb is somewhere around say 18 or 19, or 23 or 24 my view is give it the lower grade, I think its far better to have a route thats tough for the grade rather then easy… imho
Good on you for placing the sling, I’m 92kg and have snapped a bunch of flakes off these walls , including some on the start of family affair. Kangaroo rock is primarily a well equipped sport crag and in that context a dubious sling over a fragile and dodgy flake seems a bit weird.
Did you have a go at WMC? I thought it was quite staunch so be interested in your opinion.
Yeah, I’ll drop those grades…had a chat with Rob and he agrees that 17 and 18 for first 2 routes, not 18 and 19. Did not try WMC…quite a bit left to do 4me there as have been busy developing new things….I figure the old routes will always be there for later. Keen to head back (labour day wend?)
Nice one Ross, I’m keen to get down there asap. Perhaps later in feb? cheers