Home › Forums › First Ascents › A Bastard of a Place – new route on Boya Nose
- This topic has 2 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 18 years, 11 months ago by Glenn.
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Jim TruscottGuest
A Bastard of a Place 20m 23
2m left of RATTM. Scramble to the 1st BR. Gingerly up to the 2nd BR. Desperate lay backing and crimping up the edge to the 3rd BR. Onwards to the 4th BR and chains. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 14 May 05
Peter TMemberMe and Danilo repeated this and the other 2 new ones yesterday. All short but worthwhile new climbs – good work guys! Grades seem ok (and here I enter the great gradings debate) for an onsight ascent. I wasn’t really up to 23 on the day, but my first serious attempt at the moves failed when the obvious jug to land on turned out not to be. My next attempt went fine, as I then knew about the adequate hold just a bit higher. So 23 for on-sight, 22 for red-point. And if you’ve been climbing as long as me (28 years!), you know that grading is for on-sight. The term red-point had not been invented back then. Nor on-sight for that matter, as that was the only way to succeed on a climb. [Of course many first ascents were clandestinely practised on top rope, but that’s another story….].
GlennMemberHi Peter:
I like your reply and agree entirely.
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