Bluff Knoll – Hell Fire Gully

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  • 20 October 2004 at 12:00 AM #2112 Reply
    Andrew Waugh

      Hi all,

      I’m planning and need info (toppo’s pitch guides, route descriptions) etc for climbing Hell Fire Gully 250m 14 on Bluff Knoll in the Striling Ranges. I’ve done about as much reseach on the web as I can, but do recall the CAWA website had some info previously (1-2 years ago) published on this web site — which is now gone?

      Can anyone please help with info, like:

      1. Guidebook name, author etc…

      2. Personal experience on the route

      I’m planning on doing reconnaissance trips (hike to the top, take photos, and have a look at the route)… but would DEARLY love a good route description. Anyone else interested in joining the “team” (currently two climbers), please reply [email protected]

      Thanks,

      Andrew.

      21 October 2004 at 12:00 AM #2113 Reply
      Ross

        Have a look at this web site. http://www.climbwest.com.au/porogurups%20&%20stirlings.html

        The first dotted line from L is COERCION, the second one is HELL FIRE GULLY. It is obvious from the distance but get good bearings because when you are at the foot of the cliff there are many confusing features. All the same HFG is not that hard to find – it is a large almost-vertical gully. Don’t forget to traverse where the guide says so.

        21 October 2004 at 12:00 AM #2114 Reply
        Andrew Waugh

          Thanks Ross :o)

          p.s. What guide do you refer to? Is there a preferred guidebook for this climb (title, author, web-link to some such)?

          I’ve discovered quite a bit of material on the web (photos, stories, a (very) brief pitch description (as follows)

          Hell Fire Gully 254m 14

          A superb line up the Centre of the Main Face, finishing at the summit. Start of the right of the gully at foot of tower leaning against face.

          I) 35m Right side of gully, the corner to small stance opposite top of tower.

          II) 24m Up corner and left wall to belay on right below superb steep corner.

          III) 18m (crux) Steep corner. Belay on large terrace.

          IV) 27m Good pitch up right wall of gully to steep corner.

          V) 18m Up two overhangs in corner on large holds. Belay in bushes on right.

          VI) 27m Easy scramble to cave.

          VII) 38m Airy traverse left to left hand branch of gully, then into chimney and before entering cave, move into left wall. Leftward gully then move left to airy stance.

          VIII) 42m Steep wall then easier rock followed by pleasant, steep climbing to finishing platform.

          IX) 18m Walk up to summit plateau by gully.

          The CAWA site _used_ to have something but it seems to have been removed (“update soon” message in it’s place).

          Is the above the best I can expect – if so then cool, but if there’s further more detailed/helpful descriptions then I’d be happy to buy what-ever guide contains it :o)

          Thanks for your reply.

          Andrew

          22 October 2004 at 12:00 AM #2115 Reply
          Ross

            The old CAWA Guidebook (cca 1990, spiral bound) can still be found in some shops. It has descriptions of all the old Bluff routes and the description for HFG is good (not so for many of the other climbs). The Shane Richardson guide “WA Rock” has a few topo pics and covers some of the climbs. Either should be sufficient for HFG, visit a shop with your description above and amend it as needed. But really, a guide to the climb itself is not required as such, main thing is to FIND the gully at the bottom and then TRAVERSE left out of it in the correct spot. If you are really worried about getting lost then take double ropes – this way you can bail if you really stuff up. The “large terrace” in your desciption is “Prick’ll Traverse”, you can just walk off to the right. Oh, one thing, definitely wear helmets, there is plenty of loose rock…..alpine climbing, heh.

            26 October 2004 at 12:00 AM #2116 Reply
            Andre Waugh

              Great, I’m hoping to get hold of a copy of the old CAWA guide (to buy or borrow) from Toc (who replied to my email address earlier).

              Thanks Again.

              13 December 2004 at 12:00 AM #2117 Reply
              peter

                yeah, Ive been to bluff knowl once, intersted in going again for photos.I also have all climbing gear,ropes cams nuts etc if you still havent been,give me a call on 0404 514 386.

                24 December 2004 at 12:00 AM #2118 Reply
                Andrew Waugh

                  Thanks to TOC for “The Guide” and the people who supplied plenty of advice :o). We did a reccy-trip and climbed the top four pitches of Easter Gully on the NW face, as an introduction to the rock. The rock was a bit crumbly in places (now I know what people mean when they say it’s like wheat-bix ;o) but the exposure was great and the setting superb.

                  I may head down again after Christmas to climb the first few pitches of HFG up to prick’ll traverse, as it looks like fun and the next step for me in preparation to doing the whole thing in one day.

                  Will let you know how I go :o)

                  Ciao,

                  Andrew Waugh

                  28 February 2005 at 12:00 AM #2119 Reply
                  Andrew Waugh

                    Here’s a web link to some photos from the “practise trip”. :o)

                    http://www.outdoorclub.com.au/sections/photos/BluffKnoll04/

                    Ciao,

                    Andrew.

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