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Look at….. for some bolts i have removed from WA cliffs in the last 6 months and how they compare to their replacements thanks to Safercliffs WA.
“members.iinet.net.au/~gladhill/bolts.jpg”
1)A nice petzl glue in P bolt
2)A nice expansion bolt c/w hanger
3)A sh*te expansion bolt c/w sh*te hanger
4)A carrot with a hanger
5)A sh*te P bolt that was removed from bob’s hollow – with this bend in it !! and no glue !!
6) A normal carrot
7) A slightly dubious carrot.
So, whats the message. Well, there are some good bolts out there (including some carrots) and some bad ones.
Thanks to Safercliffs WA the bad ones are being replaced. Please support the initiative and donate some money in the tins at your gym or gear shop.
Those doing the rebolting are spending lots of their own money on gear, ropes, harnesses, drills, drill bits, petrol etc etc etc plus we are sacrificing our own climbing time to do the work.
some recent horror bolts replaced include:
#3 above – removed from mountain quarry and replaced with a glue in P bolt. This expansion was substandard in size and was pulled out by finger tips when the nut was removed. This shouldn’t happen !!!!
#5 a P-bolt removed from bob’s hollow and replaced with a glued in P. this bolt was simply rotated out with my fingers – the old glue was doing nothing !!!!
#6 a bolt like this used to protect the crux on silvia at mountain quarry. It wasn’t even a carrot, just a normal bolt sitting in a hole with no glue or bash in carrot holding power. It was removed and replaced with a glued in bolt.
come on kidlets. put your money on the line. please.
Good on you Neil. Important to show people these dubious bits of protection. Just a minor correction though. The dubious carrot protecting Silvia is the bolt at the top part of the pile on the left of the photo that had not been prepared – filed down etc. Hence you can see the thread undamaged. Yes it wasn’t a carrot at all, just a bolt shoved in a hole!
Went down to Wallcliffe on the weekend and saw the good work that has been done rebolting and hence reviving some awsome classics. I was wondering why a double bolt anchor has been installed on Bananarama (if thats what it is called – it is directly to the left of Bee Free). This climb is meant to climb into Bee free and finish up it. It was already possibly the softest 24 (thats what the guide gave it) in Australia and now i wonder if it warrents 21/2 to those double bolts. What is going on? Do people really think it finishes there?
I will plug freebees though. That is a wicked climb and one that i had missed out on until the new bolts were placed.
I mean it starts directly to the right of Bee Free
Logan, when i replaced the bolts on Bananarmaram(or whatever it’s called)i did so according to the description in the orginal MR guidebook. The original route as put up by John Smoothy at 23 did actually finish there, as bee free didn’t even exist at that stage. The direct finish which you describe was done afterwards by someone else. So that is why there is a 2 bolt loweroff (orginally there was a single expansion bolt loweroff).
That is the reason why the route was rebolted as such.
damn whippersnappers think they know it all. nice schooling george!
If that is the case then the grading really needs to be sorted out. Id say 21/2 to the double bolts and 22/3 to the top. Good to see the new bolts anyway.
