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13 April 2013 at 9:15 PM #86237HammerGuest
I started climbing 6 months ago. I have nuts a full trad rack x2 and every bit of conceivable kit it seems. I have only ever lead climbed trad. I have read books on anchors. And I have double ropes I use. I like to beleive I work as safe as possible. So my tech knowledge is ok/good but I cant seem to climb any higher than a 15. Just not possible. I went into the indoor the other day, but its just not for me, and far. I’d rather just bolder on my own or something. Here’s the thing im already quite strong and body weight and core moves are no probs. but all the body/foot/style I have none of. Can some one help. Is there trainers u can hire to teach u these things. Flagging/ egyption etc… need help and style haha15 April 2013 at 10:35 PM #87378HynekGuest
I also much prefer outdoors, but go indoors regularly to work on technique and strength. It’s easier to train technique indoors because you can easily pick sets of holds for a particular technique. The bouldering walls at the gyms are very good for this.
Lead climbing outdoors has to be done carefully, so its going to be hard to push your limits. Maybe mix it up with some top rope climbing where you can climb at your limit – probably few grades higher than your lead grade.
Some gyms offer private technique classes. Not sure about all of them, but City Summit have them and there seems to be this hardcore girl at Rockface doing private tuition.17 April 2013 at 12:14 AM #87992SteveGuest
I agree with Hynek I know that outside is better. as everyone does. But it is wise to pick up skills as safely as possible. indoors is a great place to start!!17 April 2013 at 3:23 PM #88349NatGuest
If you want to learn anchors and setting up belays I recommend doing a course. A qualified instructor should give the correct information and instruction on the safest way possible to set up anchors and place gear.
As for learning techniques to move on rock I wouldn’t pay anyone to teach me that. I would recommend just getting out there and doing it. If you want to moving outdoors a top rope is the best way to go. not only will you learn to climb different types of rock but you will get used to setting up anchors etc.18 April 2013 at 8:08 PM #89018Mark EdeleGuest
Relax. You started climbing half a year ago and you’re leading 15s on trad. That’s pretty good. Just keep climbing and take your time. You’ll get better over time.8 November 2013 at 8:55 PM #111824HammerGuest
Thanks guys have read so many books its crazy on all tipes of climbing. I think I have my rope work and gear sorted. I have an ice climbing trip coming up, have been tope rope soloing 16s, lead sport 16s and lead trad 16s, and am in the process of climbing my first 15 solo with my silent partner. Thing is I try 17s and they seem a world away. I tried sport lead 17 in statams and it seems like u need to be spider man, let alone all these 22 and stuff18 December 2013 at 7:08 PM #112806JamieGuest
Best I found for raising grades is to mix it up, been a long while since I have climbed regularly, but when I was I was climbing outdoors on weekends, indoors once a week. Push yourself on indoor climbs, try working climbs retrying moves until you get them, just be careful you don’t injure yourself. You need to build up muscle memory, each time you try new moves your body retains a amount of muscle memory, so each repetition increases this memory and the moves become easier.
Outdoors we would top rope new climbs pushing grades, repeating and hangdogging new moves until we got the climb , then attempted on lead. Also mic this up with leading easier climbs around or under your grade level, this will help with your gear placement and strength with holding on whilst placing gear on lead.
Another thing you can do is mix up where you climb, I found my footwork technique increased dramatically, when I mixed in some slab climbing. Mt cuthbert and wungong slabs are great.
Hope this helps