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The Routes L to R (note Rock misedited some of this, this version is more correct).
Music Wall:
NAME, GRADE, LENGTH, PRO, FIRST LEADER INITIALS AND DATE, COMMENT.
*L’Esperence, 18, 15m, 5 bolts. DW 12/09. Steep fun.
UNNAMED, 21, 20m, 6 bolts + take one thread. SR 12/09. Tricky move L near top.
Tingle in Your Fingers, 23/4, 24m, 6 bolts. RW 12/09. Desperate at the start.
Kiwi Wall:
*Family Affair, 22, 28m, 6 bolts. RW 4/08. Crux at start.
Flying Kiwis, 18/19, 28m, 5 bolts. EN 1/09.
There She Blows, 19, 28m, 6 bolts. EN 1/09.
Dance on Fires, 20/21, 28m, 6 bolts. RW 1/09.
*Windjammer, 15, 25m, Trad. EN 1/09.
Orange Wall:
*UNNAMED 22/3, 25m, 6 bolts. SR 12/09. 21 until the last move!
Universe Wall:
Ultimate Question, 22, Trad with 1 bolt. RW 1/09.
All these 10 are stared routes (really). The * means absolute classic!.
Access: From Esperence head East, making an improbable number of consecutive right turns following the signs to “Cape Le Grand National Park”. Once in the Park follow the sign to “Lucky Bay” (named by Matthew Flinders who sought refuge there in 1802), where you can camp for $8 per night and have free solar hot showers. It does get busy in peak times as its a fantastic snorkeling and swimming spot. To get to the climbing walk on the signed trail toward “Thistle Cove”. After 1km, near a hilltop you will see a balancing croissant rock, just after this take a left fork and follow the fisherman’s track down for 50m. You get to an obvious ledge facing “L’Esperence” , and can scramble down the gully (grade 5) to the climbs. The climbs all reach top-bolts so you can belay on top and walk off. Long slings are needed if you want to lower off.
Hey Rob,
Whats the low down on the boudlering in the area? Is the scope massive? Is it easily accessible with pads etc?
Cheers,
seth
I am not a boulderer but I think the potential is fantastic (I’d say the bouldering is probably better than the climbing actually) . I have done a few easy things less than 10 minutes walk from the campsite. If you were prepared to bush bash for half an hour there are hundreds of good granite boulders. Give me an email addr and I’ll try and dig up some pics to send you. I have my laptop with me in Squamish, and think I have all my pics on it.
sounds sweet!
seth at seatosummit dot com dot au
thanks
i have done some bouldering at thistle cove and had a bit of a look around, i am sure there is more potential, what we found was okay but not worth the drive to just go bouldering, looked a lot better than the reality. nice area to visit and i am keen to check out kangaroo rock
robjwall.wordpress.com/2010/10/27/kangaroo-rock-full-version-of-rock-article
Is a link to the article. Does anyone know how to put a link in here?
Just like you did. There is no way to embed a link, unfortunately.
Hey Rob, Looks nice down there! Did you see much potential for uber classic hard lines around kangaroo rock (cracks or face)? Hope Squamish has treated you well during the summer!
Hi Rob,
Thanks for developing the crag at Kangaroo Rock. It’s awesome to be able to climb in such a pristine area!
One of the 2 top bolt (anchor) of Flying Kiwis has been partially unscrewed and was seriously loose on 07/01/2011?! It was easily backed up with one of the top bolt of the next climb (Family Affair) with a 3-5m sling.
Remi
Yeah, I cannot wait to get there.
Sorry to be a pain but…bolt unscrewed….I guess this means it is an expansion bolt? If so, please be aware that expansion bolts are subject to chlorine stress corrosion cracking and should not be used anywhere near the coast. It should be less of a problem than in Thailand as it is cooler here but still, why risk it.
Love to check out this crag or anywhere else round Esperance, if anyone’s keen to get out, email me at flintduxfield(at)hotmail(dot)com.
flint
Bolts crack, and glue fails in Thailand. The climate is different and the rock is porous. Drilled rope threads are maybe the safest thing there. I am not aware of any failures in Southern Australia using good quality stainless steel bolts and hangers. The Granite at Kangaroo Rock is certainly good enough not to need glue. What do other people use on sea-cliffs in Australia these days? I’m happy to listen (as long as noone mentions carrots!).
And – Clint – I’m keen to get down there in March if you can wait. I would even consider flying down if you are local.
Good quaestion, I too would be keen to hear of any expansion bolts snapping on the coast….e.g. those Petzl Long Lifes on Peak Head West Face protect such long falls that if one snapped then yer on the ground from 15m up.
Yes, glues fail – if the installer is a wally and stuffs it up. The question is, can expansion bolts fail even through the installation is perfect?
Ross, we can talk about this when I get back. I’m into doing the best bolting we can. BTW what I heard in Thailand is that one of the Hilti glue types was actually failing in that rock for unknown reasons – I’ll wake up Trevor M and get more info…
Anyway get down there the climbing is great and its only 2 hours on a plane 🙂
I just back from kangaroo rock … some thoughts on the bolts and a few new routes
the loose hanger mentioned was on a stainless dyna-bolt placed back in the dark ages on a recce… the bolt isn’t part of a belay/top anchor which is provided by two loverly stainless 10 x 90 mm tru-bolts with stainless hangers nicely positioned 2m away. Anyway I took the offending hanger off so it wont bother anyone now.
The crag is equipped to a very high standard with stainless tru-bolts and hangers and provides high quality climbing in a great setting. I tidied up a few belays here and there to improve the general ambience
new routes
“The Roaring Forties” grade 18/19 *, 20m, 6b
Start from the ramp 5m downhill of Le Esperance. From an obvious large foot hold make thin moves left up to the super giant hueco, trend right then direct to the top past big holes. Belay as for Le Esperance. Ed Nepia 26.1.11
” Where’s my Cyclone?” grade 22 (ish) **, 28m, 4b (with more to come)
Start from the obvious ledge between ‘There she blows’ and ‘Dances on fire’
Make a hard start from the thing that looks like a hold but probably isn’t, then up the black wall, continue on sustained thin edges straight up the headwall to a 2b belay
Ed Nepia 0745 am 31.1.11
A minor technological kerfuffle meant the lowest three bolts are only marked (pre drilled) .. I ran out of time to run back to camp for another bit … anyway its a fine route and till I or someone (Rob when are you going?) gets back to finish the bolting, its easy to rap in and hang the draws and lead it with the first one pre clipped.
On a lighter note also climbed a trad route with John Miller on the south side of the rocky headland at the southern end of Lucky bay.
“Atmosfear” grade 14 **, 25m
Find the memorial cairn just above the corner of the bay near the start of the the Thistle cove walk. Wander up the slabs behind the cairn trending left to a low point on the skyline about 100m west of the tip of the headland. You should find a large cave on the ocean side below the crest with a faintly ludicrous traverse along an obvious ledge above the cave.
Start from the slab below the ledge. Belay off large cam in pocket. Climb right to a ‘step over the void’ move and then follow the ledge rightwards past a groove (alternate finish at grade 12) till it terminates at some obvious flakes and orange smoothness. Clamber on top of the flakes and up the wall. Belay off nuts and cams and/or a tree on the crest.
A great little adventure. Ed Nepia 27.1.11
cheers
Well done Rob and Ed! I can’t wait to get over there for Easter.
