This topic contains 11 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by matt 1 year, 10 months ago.
January 9, 2004 at 12:00 am #2481
Mount Chudulup, pronounced Chew-dull-up, is about 16 kilometres south of Northcliffe. The rock provides brilliant friction climbing.
We will put together an update for the whole area in the next few weeks and post it on the web. With this task in mind I am keen for any information about a number of unpublished bolted lines on the short summit wall. They have been there for a few years.
The Devil’s Tears 75m 16
Start at the right hand end of the steep wall with the undercut cave, directly opposite the car park.
Pitch One. 30m 16. Just go up like at Soi Cowboy. 7BR to DBB.
Pitch Two. 45m 6. 4BR to DBB about 2m above the triangular block of rock. There are 4BR because you will only find one or two. J. Truscott, M. Rosser (Alt) 29 Dec 03
*** Blood in the Balance 80m 22
A stiff friction climb on the Karri tree framed south face near the very large detached boulder. Start beside the Karri tree.
Pitch One. 45m 22. 9BR to DBB. Friction directly up to just above the first BR to clip the second BR. Friction up right to the side pull and clip the third BR when you can. Sequency footwork to gain the fourth BR, where it eases off.
Pitch Two. Easy unprotected climbing to rock outcrop belay. M. Rosser, J. Truscott (Alt) 27 Dec 03.
This is the short wall on the eastern side of Mount Chudulup. Access from the summit is about 2 minutes.
Traverse of the Dirty Drunken Druids 20m 21
Up the wall past 2BR to a bomber edge. Traverse left past 2BR and then directly up past BR to the top. 5BR to DBB. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 29 Dec 03
*Arete of the Dirty Drunken Druids 20m 14
Follow the right tending crack and rounded arête. 15m left of Traverse of the Dirty Drunken Druids J. Truscott, M. Rosser 29 Dec 03
Crack of the Dirty Drunken Druids 25m 14
The tree filled crack 10m right of the TOTDDD J. Truscott, M. Rosser 29 Dec 03January 15, 2004 at 12:00 am #2482
Thats interesting, i was hiking very close to that area (about 2km) a while back thinking, that looks like a great place to go climbing. sounds like it is too, ill have to check it out.January 9, 2005 at 12:00 am #2483
the bolted routes on the southern summit wall have been removed by conservation and land management although the crack areas were climbed reguarly by myself and friends back in 1999- 2000, the natural crack on the left end near the now ex bolted steep route is called sotico soldier 14 those routes that were bolted were all top roped as (CALM)would not grant permission to bolt them ,however somebody decided to take it upon themselves to bolt here any way which has lead to a climbing ban on mount chudy…i have not climbed there since 2001 as i am a local climbing guide based in pemberton and stand to have my tour operators licence revoked if i am caught climbing there i just stay away and have been pushing calm for permission through the correct channels (please if any body wants to see mount chualup opened to climbers instead of closed to all … contact me on 0427 084 015 i will be watching this page for any replies also… this accsess problem goes as far as the aboriginal land and sea council and they believe that bolting here is a direct insult to there rock( so please for now refrain from publishing any more route descriptions unless you want to see your hard work time and money(bolts) removed by calm and all the efforts of the climbers that are trying to gain accsess for all(through the correct channels) destroyed…
thanks for your timeJanuary 9, 2005 at 12:00 am #2484
PS:when bolts are found on mount chualup by CALM they will remove them (to all of our disgust)they now have the power to serve infringment notices and fines and being the only climber in the area known by calm where do you think they come with there accusations.
and im sure they look at the cawa site too there not silly.
and if somehow you do have a permit i appologise and would love to know how you pulled that out of you hat.
please give me a call on 0427 o84 015 to discuss how we can work together to gain accsess for all.January 11, 2005 at 12:00 am #2485
Middle East Correspondent
Sounds to me like the CAWA committee should be contacted on this as climbing bans concern all. I have not heard of such a ban, was CAWA informed ? If not then how is anybody supposed to know about the ban ? Are there signs….does the place have documented aborignal, environmental significance, what is the legal status (Conservation Reserve ?)…..who decided on the ban, were other users (bushwalkers…) consulted….etc…some issues here.
At the very least CAWA should put all these access or bolting restrictions on this web site (e.g. Bluff Knoll, Payne’s Ford, South Coast Adventure Climbing Area…)so this is widely known.January 11, 2005 at 12:00 am #2486
I meant Payne’s FIND (Ninghan).January 12, 2005 at 12:00 am #2487
To ALL outdoor climbers
CAWA plays a key role for access issues in WA and yes, CAWA could be doing more on this score.
Who will be the CAWA Access Officer for 2005??? Million dollar question.
Seriously guys, CAWA needs HELP and I am not kidding. If you can spare a bit of time this year and put some valuable effort into Access issues then please, please, come to the AGM on Jan 19th (upstairs at Rosies pub, 7:30pm) and put your hand up.
It’s an interesting and important job and it is becoming more important as the years go by.
So if you want to maintain access rights and continue to have some ripper climbing trips to our few and far between crags, then give some practical help.January 14, 2005 at 12:00 am #2488
the people to contact to verify this are the donnelly district calm office,as a licenced tour operator i have been seeking permition to use mount chudalup for some time now to no avail due to the fact that the present management plan does not permit rockclimbing in the d,entrecasteaux national park also the land and sea council have there strict conditions on the subject and believe that this a traditional womans place ,even for calm the implications are there , any thing they do regarding rocks in the south must be overseen by a group of traditional custodians of the land from the aboriginal land and sea council so unless we the climbers tread carfully we have no chance, and if we (the climbers)have any chance to gain accsess to chudalup we must lobby as soon as possibal. as a new management for the area is almost finalised and will be current for the next ten years.so speak up and have your say before its to late…contact calm pemberton (donnely district)alone i am one man and no notice will be taken
but all climbers can make one phone call each and make all the difference, gone are the days when climbers were a minority ,for god sake there sinkin ships for divers because they want new dive sites why cant we get a bloody new rock.
i will be in touchJanuary 14, 2005 at 12:00 am #2489
i think calm expect us to ask for permit to climb ,not us bolt first and ask for a banJune 7, 2006 at 12:00 am #2490
I used to live in Northcliffe and it is spelt “Chudalup.”June 7, 2006 at 12:00 am #2491
I used to live in Northcliffe and it is spelt “Chudalup” and pronouced “Chew dal up”June 8, 2006 at 12:00 am #2492
I spelt it correctly in the guide. If you would like a copy of the guide post an email address and I will send it.