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  • #55541 Reply
    andvariousothers
    Guest

    *  Usurper 17, 25m
    Starts as for Finger Licking Awful, crosses Gunga Kim, finishes on Rage lower-offs.
    Climb FLA to the top of the crack. On the face above are two GIMB bolts. Climb slightly right of the bolts. Above the second bolt step left into a shallow corner above a small bush. Climb 4m up the corner to where it meets the intersection of a horizontal rail on the  left and an arête on the right. Move left along the hand-rail to join Rage. Optional clip with long sling on Rage bolt , or climb bravely up over easy ground to Rage lower-offs.
    FA: 17/2/13    T Martens,  P Calais, P Thomas,   and various others.
    Natural gear in the FLA crack and behind the horizontal rail.  (the bottom of the FLA crack is harder to protect than it appears, gear falls out). Climbing the shallow corner caused hesitation. We suggested  an extra bolt . This was resisted for two reasons;
    1 Good holds are reached stepping a meter up above the second bolt,
    2 The shallow corner is part of the old death-route Gunga Kim (although the death part below the roof is now bolted by other climbs).
    By Trad standards gear is good and run-outs reasonable.
    A good way to climb the FLA crack, and GK corner, which otherwise see little traffic.
    cleaning the mud out of the corner and bolting a  direct finish may improve the climb.

    #55615 Reply
    Phillip
    Guest

    It was ‘andvariousothers’ that actually did all the hard work in bolting and cleaning the climb.  It’s quite a nice climb – a bit scary above the bolts, but cleaning some more of the moss and mud out of the crack would help a lot.

    #55771 Reply
    andvariousothers
    Guest

    yes, thanks for the instruction, equiment and material.
    cleaning? there might be a nut placement in the groove.  Nice climb, though usurps three others. Bit  more gear would be an alternative to Playboy

    #59193 Reply
    andvariousothers
    Guest

    mud was cleaned out of the groove/shallow corner. There’s now a good gear placement. Also removed a loose flake, unfortunately it makes the climb easier.  But people still complain so can’t be too bad. Opinion is might be  a nice climb in cool weather, but lot of the value would be getting  a top-rope on Outrage and Rage.

    #75361 Reply
    Phillip
    Guest

    Did the de-mudded version of Usurer over Easter – a bit easier and a lot less freakier now as there are footholds and a good nut placement where once was mud and moss.

    #75375 Reply
    Dena
    Guest

    Is there much more de-mudding to do? Would prefer to wait until you’ve completely cleaned it. 🙂 Getting a top rope on Rage is all very well but the start makes Outrage feel like a walk in the park and it won’t prevent the colourful language that accompanies the initial moves.

    #75599 Reply
    Andvariousothers
    Guest

    Usurpppper is fine. All that remains is to see if it seeps in winter. Anthony removed remaining loose material and tested nut placement.
     the old version was much better.  WABOW

    #75621 Reply
    Andvariousothers
    Guest

    oh, ok take that back. Just looked up wabow. Doesn’t mean what I thought. Thanks for looking at the climb. Now for the second pitch.

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