Home Forums First Ascents New climb at west cape (vulture street wall)

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    Ronald Master
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    Dreadnought, Grd 20, 40m, 5 bolts (need hangers) + micro to number three cams. Ronald Master, Mike Taylor, Dec 2012
     Approach
    Abseil from the P bolts at the top of Dark Arts (adjacent to the gully forming the vulture street wall). The climb starts about 15m to the right of Vulture Street and about 10m above on a terrace in the gully (to the left of Dark Arts). The start is a shallow groove/crack that is between Vampire Street and the gully and heads straight up the wall to the blunt nose/arête on step fantastic rock.
     Description
    The climb starts in an awkward and strenuous shallow flared crack. Clip the bolt and layback/jam up passing a second bolt. Lunge for the horizontals and up to a good number 2 or 3 cam in some big horizontal breaks. Stay on the wall moving up past another 3 bolts over technical and sustained ground on shallow rounded horizontal breaks and some sharp crimps. The final move of the crux section is a lunge for a shallow v shaped alcove on the blunt arête. Pull into this placing a small cam and head up the steep juggy blunt arête/nose with plenty of cam placements. Belay on Dark Arts descent bolts and a large cam. 

    #114357 Reply
    Ryan
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    Great route, quite sustained with some excellent moves. I did find the second hanger tricky to reach but thats part of the fun of being a short arse and not willing to commit to the move that reaches the good stance.

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