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This direct line may have been led before but thought we would write it up:
The Unbolted and The Beautiful (20m 15)
Start 2m right of Dolphin Smiles, up and right using the corner system. From the shelf and 2m right of Sinuosity head straight up the wall using flakes and then further up horizontal pocket, joining Sinuosity to finish (Krish Seewraj, Andrew Malone 27/03/11).
Willyabrup has a number of climbs with run outs/marginal protection and bold slabby/slopey top outs – it is how the place is and it is how we like it. Local climbers are not opposed the use of bolts but we do not appreciate bolts being placed inappropriately such as after the hard moves are over (for a climber of standard stature); in places that can be naturally protected; on contrived lines or one move wonders; and/or near the top of the crag in places where the traditional climbs on the crag would simply run it out.
If there is something at Willyabrup thats pissing you off Krish, then how bout you cut to the chase.
Rather than the”Holier-than-thou” supposed local speech!. I for one have placed and removed numerous bolts at willyabrup and are well aware of the history.
Im interested to know what your referring to??
Given the location, sounds like it should be a nice climb, look forward to giving it a try next time i’m down at Willys.
I have to agree with you on one point in particular, bolting next to trad options. I would also add limiting chalk use but thats a losing argument, just glad i dont climb in areas where it’s pretty much connect the dots!
George also raises a good point, tho given the timing i would guess Krish may be refering to other recently established new climbs at Willys, as yet i haven’t had the pleasure of climbing them so i cannot comment personaly tho now im even more keen to give them a shot!
Cheers for the heads up Ryan, yep one of those rights was a left:
Start 2m right of Dolphin Smiles, up and right using the corner system. From the shelf and 2m left of Sinuosity head straight up the wall using flakes and then further up horizontal pocket, joining Sinuosity to finish (Krish Seewraj, Andrew Malone 27/03/11).
Cutting to the chase – climbs that have got locals talking are those to the left of Dolphin Smiles and both left and right of One for the Road.
O.K, thats more like it!.
What are the issues?, are there bolts very close to existing routes and are they near natural protection??.
Route left of Dolphin Smiles has 6 ring bolts could do with a max of three and probably placed differently to link in with available trad gear (this route follows the top half of Percy Pigsville which had been previously climbed on trad but was admitedly sketchy in the middle half of the top wall below the main break). For the route left of One for the Road the question is why was it even bolted, you need to steer clear of the coner to make the bottom half match the grade of the top half, the bottom bolt is high and once clipped I reckon the hard moves are over, to keep people away from the corner why wasn’t the second bolt placed further right and then there are two bolts above the roof and one would have done. For the route to the right of One for the Road, the need for first bolt is questionnable it is above the hard moves plus there is a small cam 1m’ish below it, the next bolt is not on hard moves (can’t remember off the top of my head what the gear was like) and the top arrete has three bolts the bottom one has great gear just below the roof and the top two could be done with one bolt (it seems there was a need to be a bolt at every move :-)). These are not just my thoughts but no one else was bold enough to speak up, as originally stated bolts have their place but the ethics seemed to have lapsed somewhat for these more recent climbs hence the concern of where it may lead to. Have you climbed these routes yourself, I would be keen to see if you agree.
havent climbed the routes either side of one for the road, but have enjoyed one for the road many times..
so prefacing my comment with that statement
‘the best way to spoil a good crag is to squeeze in endless variations’
or
‘if you want to create three average routes, squeeze a variation between two great routes’
Krish – have you led the three routes you are criticising?
All – has anybody else led these routes?
Yes all three.
having said above I am looking forward to trying the new routes
Willy Climber, you won’t be disappointed with the climbing on the route to the left of Dolphin Smiles or the line to the right of One for the Road they are certainly worthy lines 🙂
I my self have also climbed all 3 leading the one left of dolphin’s and the right of one for the road. Found both climbs I led to be great fun and worth the effort, only point to make is that placements were poor. The one to the right of one for the road first bolt placement is to high to be actually effective bolting it becomes more difficult than the move it should be protecting. As for the top section there is great natural placement to be used rather than the first one there. As for the climb to the left not that exciting and a waste of bolts. Then there is the one to the left of dolphin smiles loved the climb but over bolted as I climbed it I found a good amount of natural pro to do sections of the climb safely. As for the previously led section where bolts were added it might of made th climb safer but I must agree with Krish that ethics should of been followed and left out, even if it meant I never had the balls to lead it myself. Any way get out there and climb them and see what you think.
Headed back to Willy’s today and had another bash at the route to the left of Dolphin Smiles, this time with my rack. I managed to climb the route quite safely using only the third and fifth bolt. Funnily these two bolts are both on the upper section that follows Percy Pigsville. The thrid being at what is described and certainly is a ‘committing crux’, now with some holds glued on I assume to make sure they don’t peel off. So Craig I am not sure I would have the balls to lead of orginal climb either!
