Home Forums First Ascents New route at Peak Charles near Spartacus

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    The Antechinus, 90m Grade 19, 3 pitches***
    Pitch 1
    30m, grade 19
    10 bolts to DBB

    A fine route of enjoyable and memorable face climbing on “gold class” rock. Starts approx 15m right of Spartacus (10m past LCIHS) at the prominent orange streak which is clearly visible from camp. Boulder passed the first bolt and immerse yourself in a glorious maze of yellow slopers and crimps. Emerge onto the black wall above and enjoy the romp to the belay on incut jugs and pockets. A splendid pitch of rock climbing.

    Pitch 2
    30m, grade 12
    Trad, finger sized wires and cams

    From the belay gain the thin crack and climb up past a ledge to another easy crack. Up this and run it out as the angle eases to the base of a large flake, slightly right. Trad Belay at base of flake.

    Pitch 3
    30m, grade 10
    Trad to DBB

    Can be linked with P2. Up the wall left of the shallow gulley and huge flake. Continue up on slabs using bomber, but spaced wires and finger sized cams. DBB up high on the “prow” of the slab.

    Neil Gledhill, Kate Swain, Easter 2021

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