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As you walk into the main section of the quarry with the main wall infront of you there is another section to your left with a 15m high wall overhanging by about 15 degrees. On the right hand side of the wall is probably Perths only proper jamming crack. It has a boulder problem start then is flared hands and bomber finger jams till the top. Still a little dirty but heaps of fun (and a wee pumpy).
The Ugly Duck That Never Grew Up (26).
Grade yet to be confirmed but definetely not harder than 26. There is a low bolt at the start placed years ago by Shannon (I dont know his last name) and the rest takes sinker gear.
Funny, Last time we were out there you said you were gonna work on your route up the main wall and leave that one for me. I worked it over the last couple of years but kids and injury wasted a lot of time. I guess thats the way it is round here though…
Time waits for no man…..
Apparently neither does Logan. I just wish I had not spent so much time cleaning it at the start of each season, as it fills with crap every winter/big rain, for him to tick it.
How long had it been since you had tried it? It was filled with alot of lose rock (the type that once taken out would not be replaced each season like mud). Anyway if i had have had contact with you i would have asked but i was under the impression that it was abandoned. Two and a bit years is a long time to leave a project closed anyway especially a trad route. Especially in an area like perth were climbing is a rare commodity.
January is not 2 1/2 years if my maths is any good. I may not be as strong a climber as yourself but was looking forward to being able to finish that one. I know it is a trad climb so could not really call it “my” project. The bolt was placed to protect the boulder prob at the start, nothing more, as the rock there has a tendency to crumble. I did not place any other fixed pro as there was no need, top outs were possible and if needed were protected with a sling from the boulder. If you wanted to get in touch both Pat and Seb have my number.
So this in essence is a trad route? First in best dressed is the adage to live by when trying to claim the FA of a route that you havn’t gone to the effort of bolting….
Please call Shannon a waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaabulance!
….or some French Cries and a glass of whine.
Shannon,
It seems that there is really no problem here and i didnt step beyond any ethical limits. Just because it is not a first ascent doesnt mean you cant look forward to sending it. It will still be the same nice route. Oh and January 2004 is two and a bit years ago now although i am reasonably sure we where out there together at the end of the 2003 summer which is even longer ago (see post in new routes: To all those chippers 24 July 2003).
Logan, you climbed a good climb, I don’t want to take away from that, no ethics broken. I won’t say I am not dissapointed that I didn’t get it first, as between injuries i have had a few really good shots at that but that is the way it goes.
To the Edudicator: you say I had not gone to the effort of bolting, would you prefer me to, instead of placing one bolt to protect the groundfall before first piece is installed, to have a line of bolts next to a decent gear taking crack? I have seen some people claim one bolt as enough fixed pro to claim a climb as a project, I won’t even pretend to do that. Logan knew how much I wanted to tick that one and it would have just been good to hear it from him first. It was a few years since we were both out there together, but I have been out quite a lot since as I’m sure you have. January 2006 being the most recent. Just have to keep an eye out for that next new crag.
oh yeah Plato shouldn’t waaaaaaaaaaaabulance have an m in it?
