A WALK IN THE PARK

In 2005 this is the longest climb in the State: Grade 13, 505 metres

1st ascent; Dave Moyses and Mike Adams alt. Good Friday, 25 March 2005

The route crosses the entire North-east buttress and edges out ending above Karakorum Gully below the summit. There is a contiguous line of weakness the whole way which is followed. The line was noted by Dave Moyses and attempted at Easter, 2004. Adams, on the crux of Pitch 4 had his feet washed from under him in a flash thunderstorm. They sheltered awhile just above and right Pitch 5 belay, next to an instant waterfall – just add water – and climbed out directly. The 2005 climb in extreme heat conditions took less than six hours.

Access. Use the usual crossing into Central Gully . Descend slightly and follow the bush-covered gangway right., for about a ropes length out onto the face.

Pitch 1 50m. From the end of the gangway, easily, a full rope’s length leads to the skyline and on to a platform and belay. (Belay 5 Badile)

Pitch 2 35m. Up to the right/hand end of cave, taking central ramp.

Pitch 3 20m. Exit cave and climb up to vegetation at 10m (possible natural belay) and then out to right to find double bolt bracket belay in the middle of the slab face.

Pitch 4 40m. Right across slab, then rising right through weakness and then right to stance on platform. Across gully see a grey buttress.

Pitch 5 50m. Follow onto grey buttress on skyline to easy going.

Pitch 6 30m. Walk on to deep gully and descend a couple of metres to belay opposite the breakout on the other side.

Pitch 7 20m. Cross steep gully (crux) and up wall to continue right to the next edge of a large gully.

Pitch 8 40m. Climb the gangway upwards for a few metres and then descend someway and take a rising traverse to the red water-worn slab. There are two thin dykes across it a third of its height from the top. Belay at dyke at edge of slab.

Pitch 9 35m. Cross slab via the dykes to right end of cave.

Pitch 10 45m. Exit cave right and ascend diagonally towards crest. Poor belay.

Pitch 11 50m. Continue right, crossing the exit from Skyliner. Ahead is Karakorum Gully.

Pitch 12 50m. At the first gully: climb it, breakout right and head across face for white-rock gangway and belay.

Pitch 13 40m. Continue rising traverse above Karakorum Gully and finish up wall on left and return right to stop and belay 50m below summit cave. From here no rope is needed.

Exit 50m. Takes you to the western summit cave. A further 50m in the same direction (take short wall to the right of cave) will take you to the summit cairn. To descend, turn left at the cairn and follow the tourist track – indistinct.