Home Forums Climbing Talk peak charles sport routes?

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  • #9496 Reply

    I was hoping someone out there may be able to advise if there are some sport climbs with hangers etc at peak Charles (amd where…its a big area to walk around bolt hunting 🙂 ). I haven’t been able to find too much info on the web and the guide on this site seems to imply its pretty much all trad climbing.

    I live in kalgoorlie and are planning on heading down this way regularly. Any other climbing suggestions in the goldfields region would be good too.

    #9497 Reply

    I don’t know of any sport routes there and for the love of Christ I hope it stays that way :p

    #9498 Reply

    No worries, the only reason I ask is because its mostly what I’m familiar with. How do you suggest I get into trad climbing or climb to make most of that beautiful spot. I’m a beginner but have climbed a few routes pre-bolted with hangers, I really enjoy camping down that way and am keen to do a heal of climbing down there as well, but I guess I expected there to be a few routes pre bolted with hangers etc. I went for a walk near some of the routes and found some really dodgy rusted bolts, I think the’re called carrot bolts. Any advice/ suggestions welcome.

    #9499 Reply

    Forget the name of the climb, but just to the right of Trout Dentures (50m right being just to the right at PC). There’s a very moderate bolted route, or at least all the belay stations have ring bolts. Low grade and boring at the top, but a nice view with maybe 5 pitches.

    The first pitch of Trout Dentures is a fairly thoroughly bolted, but quickly becomes demanding and unbolted on the second pitch.

    The upper terraces have short single pitch bolted sports climbs, quite hard. Only one below 20 I think.

    #9500 Reply

    I got into trad climbing by hooking up with a like-minded person, buying one of those “How to Rock Climb” books and studying it (theres loads of these things), going on a lead climbing course, buying a starter rack (5 cams, about 12 nuts) and doing lots of toproping for 2 years before I started leading (which is good for practicing trad gear for belays). You can ass about walking around the bottom of Churchmans placing trad gear and then load testing it (clip a long sling into it, then step into sling and bounce).

    And finally, a plug….trad climbing gives great freedom to go wherever and do whatever….90% of climbing out there is not bolted world wide. I am off to climb the Eiger next week (with a small trad rack). Have fun getting started, Toby, it’s a good journey.

    #9501 Reply

    What Ross, as in ‘the north face of the Eiger’ country! Lucky you, enjoy.

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