Perth Re-bolting
- This topic has 23 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 3 months ago by
Jamie.
-
AuthorPosts
-
George
Please list routes that you believe could do with fixing up
George
Since I don’t live in Perth and have done very little climbing there, this one is out there to you guys!
Roo
How about Red Giant at Churchmans? grade 19, currently protected by a carrot on a climb to the right, then 2 pitons, Its a great climb but I dont have enough faith in the pitons to lead it.
Cheers
dwarf
red giant can be done on gear at the base. Okay mico gear but still gear.
Roo
Hmm Think I’d have more faith in the pitons… especially with the thought of falling from above the overhang.. 🙂
Ben
Think this is the right spot…
Toodyay Boulders might need a look at. Wounded Knee (22R) has what looks like a home made bolt plate as the first point. I toproped instead cause I didn’t wanna put my faith in it. And Pretty Vacant (17) has a carrot that sticks about 20mm out of the rock and is slightly bent; downwards no less…
Emil on behalf of SCWA
This morning I did a bit of cleaning up/bolting for the Perth SCWA movement.
At Mountain Quarry:
* Added second lower-off to Hang Ten
* Placed 2 lower-offs at the top of Cranial Void
* Placed loweroff at top of Black Ambiance to back up the existing carrot bolt/chain anchor
* Replaced the shitty carrot at the start of Sweet Pea with a ring.
All bolts placed were SCWA Fixe ring bolts. Glue and drill bits were donated by Mark and Emil.
As per https://www.climberswa.asn.au/Community/Messageboard/default.asp?view=message&id=697 i drilled a pocket/crimp where the original glued on hold was on Cranial Void.
I removed all the old carrot bolts from Sweet Pea, some which popped out with frightening ease.
There has been talk of adding a bolt to the start of Hang Ten. With the shift of rubble from the start, the first bolt is now a good 8m off the deck. Given that many novices do this route as a “first-tick 24” we thought it would save trips to the hospital for some.
I have attempted to contact the FA (Ron Masters Snr) but to no avail. Input would be appreciated.
Please note on this last point that i have no agenda other than creating a safe climb – personally i dont care if it gets another bolt.
Cheers E
Kris
MY GOD!!! You replaced a carrot with a ring!?!?
Top work, but watch your back….the carrot police will be after you.
Seriously, thanks to all the people who over the last few months have been trying to fix up and maintain many of our climbs down south and around town.
If nothing else i appreciate it.
Wicked
George
Good work Emil and Mark,
Awsome that you guys donated some time and $ to the rebolting initiative, thanks for the effort::).
Shannon
I know the first bolt on hang ten is a fair way off the deck but it is an easy clip. With the rubble on the right and jugs, I think a bolt lower down would detract from the climb, others may feel different though. Either way you guys are doing a top job on other stuff.
Neil
extra bolt on hang ten – good idea. go for it.
bimco
the clip may be easy but the fractured glued hold you clip from is far from inspiring
Ross
Loweroffs and replacing crappy carrots, phuntastic, super well done.
But me thinks adding extra bolts is letting cats out of bags.
Same could be done for Urban Ethics, and Vader, same rationale, and some runout climbs esp. on slabs (elsewhere, Cuthbert…) could have bolts added between existing ones….etc, see what I mean.
Ugh…first bolt on H10 is not at 8m, whole climb is 12m high…but I don’t know what’s happened to the base lately as I have been living overseas for last 2 years
Maybe a better strategy would be that if the clipping hold has become dodgy (I have not this for 5 years) then gluing it on or similar….have there been some accidents? Had been done 100s of times…
Shannon
Nah, first clip hold still solid as of a couple of weeks ago. The ground below has been levelled out a bit and prob makes first clip 1m higher. plenty of old carrots that need rebolting out there without starting to retro bolt climbs.
Emil
With SCWA bolts, glue and drill bits, Chips And Dips (26) at Stathams was rebolted replacing the carrots with Fixe p’s.
The carrots at the top were left for those wishing to do the traditional finish, grovelling up the gulley. For those after a fresh approach, an extra bolt and lower offs have been added for the Tapas Direct Finish (26).
jamie
any chance of some piton replacement at churchies…that crag sees a lot of traffic and some of the climbs at the northern end would see more climbers on them if the pitons were replaced…ie celestial way, through to the red giant/direct .. grit area
and next time i’m up perth way i’ll drop some cash into the tins/…
keep up the good work guys
SCWA
Hey Jamie,
We’d love to get some work done at churchmans, but until we raise some more funds, it won’t happen.
cheers
SCWA
Emil
Maybe I’ll be letting the cat out of the bag here, but my motivation for rebolting routes is somewhat selfish – I’ll rebolt lines that i want to do or haven’t done in the past because of bad bolts.
I know this to be the case for other folks doing the same. Thus if you want churchman’s climbs rebolted, then churchman’s climbers are the best to do it (i wont go near the place).
While i know that funds are needed to buy bolts, glue and bits, i am happy to donate the use of our petrol powered drill to those who take on rebolting efforts.
The rest is your time. All we need is people to donate, and people to give up the time to actually do it. Its not difficult and there are many people that can show you how.
Emil
Yesterday I resurrected Hammer and Tongs (25) at Stathams from it’s hiatus as a little-climbed route.
Many loose blocks were removed from high on the climb while the bottom was generally cleaned up. 4 new SCWA P bolts were added to replace poorly positioned GIMBs, and lower offs added.
4 of the existing GIMBs were found to be sound so were left in situ. Thus, protection is now a mix of Ps and GIMBs to P lower offs. Between the 2nd and last bolt is a little spooky but can be protected with a blue alien sized cam and/or green/red camalot (.75-1).
This is an excellent outing, a climb that is destined to become a right of passage for a leader of this grade. With the loss of holds over the years, it could well be 26, subsequent ascents will tell… Enjoy
Emil
Digitally remastered Hammer and Tongs had a few ascents over the weekend and consensus seems to be that it’s still 25 but is a bloody good route.
Neil
Thanks to safer cliffs WA, Left Lateral Port-Side Smidgen Winkler (21) at stathams quarry has been rebolted and a lower off added.
its not a bad warm up for the harder stuff…. but the start can be a bit frustrating.
SCWA
The following routes have been rebolted:
Penthouse 28m 18
All original carrots have been replaced and a 2 bolt lower off has been added.
Playboy 28m 17
A 2 bolt loweroff has been added to avoid the muddy scramble off and reduce erosion.
Cost-$45
Thanks Neil for all your hard work, come on folks keep the donations coming.
Neil
if anyone has anything constructive to say, suggestions are welcome wrt rebolting priorities around perth (and the rest of WA).
here’s a chance to stop whinging about carrots, chipping, the lack of perth climbing etc etc and help contribute to our community.
Jamie
suggestions… as per my post above..
anything on the north end of churchies..as in climbs from mainliner through to red giant/direct.. get rid of those hideous pitons…shudder
-
AuthorPosts
