Home Forums First Ascents Porongurups Marmabup Rock

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    Beckey-Gledhill-Swain, 105m, 17
    It’s amazing what you can accomplish living on stolen condiments. Rap in, climb out, plaisir slab sport climbing consumer combo. Leave your hexes at home. Find your way to the top of Marmabup Rock and locate a double hanger belay on the southish side towards the top of RTFOA. Abseil 50m down past the hanger brail trail to a double bolt belay at the top of pitch 2. Rap 30m down from here past more bolts with your eyes closed to preserve the onsight. Stop at the double bolt belay at the top of Pitch 1 and then rap the final 25m to a bolt belay on some big blocks and a sort of cleft thing. This is nowhere near the ground. RTFOA classic corner pitch is just to the climbers left. You could climb that route from the ground if you want, then join up with this one. Fun times. A fun, modern bolted, sport slab climb.

    Pitch 1
    Scamper up past 8 fixed hangers (FH) to DBB. Grade 17. Nut-craft not required, unless you’re a squirrel.

    Pitch 2
    Grade 17. 11FH and 30m of crunchy 1200million year old precambrian granite slab (no, that’s not a type of cheese). Clip smear clip clip smear smear. Cleans up better than Barrington quarry and no bogans.

    Pitch 3
    Make sure you are on the pointy end for the glory summit pitch. The crux is not tripping on the bolts as you romp home. 7FH, grade 15.

    Bolted for standard Porongurup conditions. i.e light drizzle, considerable apathy and a niggling southerly. Can’t believe the Boya Boys missed this one.

    Gledhill-Swain and an oldie. April 2014.

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