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We went to Stathams quarry for the first time on Sunday. After having found the quarry and walking in from Ridge Hill Rd as per the 2002 Climbing guide we met three other climbers (who had driven in). After having discovered that we had left our guidebook in the car we were shown the area by one of the super helpful fellows that was there.
I was more interested in just getting an idea of the place. Having a look around and getting ideas so we could plan a trip next time. My friend had other ideas and was keen to climb. We started on Mourning 16R (we discovered later after reading the guidebook) and quickly discovered that my friend could not do the mantle starting moves. We also learnt (not the hard way) what the R rating means in 16R. A good experience for both of us.
I made my friend retire off that wall after a few attempts and we decided to tackle one of the climbs that we had seen two of the others doing earlier in the day (slabby starts with the tree at belay). By this time it was in full sun but my friend was super keen and smeared and sizzled his way up having a very enjoyable climb despite the heated rock.
Upon reaching the last bolt he was having problems fitting a bolt plate so we used a wire and decided to down climb off the wall for safety reasons and because it simply seemed the right thing to do. We are novices and learning all the time.
Upon getting back down we had a look at the bolt plates. I had several PFH and RP hangers but my friend cannot remember which one would not fit but still thinks that he used both RP and PFH varieties before that last bolt. Does anyone have any advice on this ?
It was our first climb outdoors having used hangars as we have previously either top roped routes or climbed where there have been hangers or ring type hangers ie Wallcliffe and Wily’s.
All in all it was a great day and we learnt alot from the experience. Any advice given would be greatly appreciated.
Both my climbing partner and I would like to thank those individuals that were at Stathams for providing the advice and help that they did. It was a good day.
PS Also chasing the info for the park ranger so that next time we can have access to the gate at Ridge Hill Road.
Mark
The best plates to use are the 90 degree PFH, as described in the 2002 guidebook and reproduced here:
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/moving-outdoors/
To book for the quarry and obtain the gate code, contact the ranger on 9295 2244.
Have you seen the Stathams Quarry miniguide available on this site? It is found under Climb–>Miniguides. It has all the new routes and excellent photos. The skull and cross bones on Mourning is a pretty good warning 🙂 Also note that the grades can be deceptive for anything climbed in the 70’s.
Here is my list of recommended climbs for starting out at Stathams:
*** Kid Rock (17)
*** Morning Glory (17)
Plummeting Penguins (16)
* Twenty Easy Steps (17)
* Mount Everest (16)
If you are starting to a feel a bit bolder then check out Real Life Ambition (21). Very pumpy but so much fun.
Hi Mark,
I was one of the people at Statham’s the other day.
There are plenty of great climbs at Statham’s – and plenty of not so great climbs, as I’m sure you now know!
I have found that it’s a good idea to have different types of bolt-plates due to problems such as you mention. I’ve even found quite a difference between bolt-plates of the same brand and type – some will fit over some bolts and some won’t.
The climbs that Mark W listed are all good, well bolted (assuming you can get the bolt plate over!) climbs. Ther are a couple of other easier climbs as well such as Novice Penguins (13) that were put up mainly for people to practice their bolt-clipping on.
For access, phone the number that Mark put up. It’s the Perth Hills National Park Centre. They are open Mon – Friday from 9 till 5 or something like that and Saturday and Sunday from 10 until about 2 pm (I think). Just phone them and tell them that you want to go climbing at Statham’s or Mountain (Also called Boya) Quarry. They usually ask your name and contact number and give you the gate code.
Have fun!
or he could go there with someone who knows where to climb!
