Home Forums First Ascents Statham’s – new route. yay.

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  • #9202 Reply
    Neil
    Guest

    Scoot Scoot Bandicoot 25m 26

    Snuffle up Hammer and Tongs. Grunt like a bogan past the first hard move, then scoot scoot like a bandicoot up and right. Eventually, you’ll make it to the foodbag located at the jug. Wipe the crumbs from your nose and scurry past the last bolt to the lower off.

    Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill 2010

    #9203 Reply
    Peter T
    Member

    Nice work chaps! When I’m younger and stronger, I’ll give it a go!

    #9204 Reply
    chris
    Member

    so jeff and other nay-sayers, how come youre not hassling neil about whether his route is chipped, whether he bought it down to his level etc? losing your touch?

    #9205 Reply
    Jeff M
    Member

    Its funny Chris but I thought you’d be happy that I hadn’t said anything but I guess you’ll whinge no matter what eh?

    OK here goes, Neil did you chip the route? What protection did you use? Did your chipping affect any other climb? etc…

    That ok for ya chris?

    #9206 Reply
    Jeff’s Mum
    Member

    Don’t mind Jeff.

    He’s not the messiah, he’s just a very naughty boy !

    #9207 Reply
    Hmmm
    Member

    A little birdie told me that you didn’t actualy send it Neil? Rummor has it that the true first assent should go to Kate, and that you bumbled your way up it. Is this true?

    #9208 Reply
    Francois
    Member

    Nice climb. A worthwile addition to Stathams. The grade feels OK. Thanks for that.

    Cheers

    #9209 Reply
    one of the gals
    Member

    hot stuff Kate! Give us more.

    #9210 Reply
    Emil
    Member

    Nice one kate couple more ascents yesterday – cool route. grade seems about right although compares well to other 25s on the wall. hell seems i have a reputation as a sandbagger, so i’ll shuddup

    #9211 Reply
    George
    Member

    Jumped on it yesterday, all good until to you get to the 2nd bolt on SSB. The bolt is right next to (i.e 15cm) the foothold used to rock over on. Which is fine if you dont fall off there!!, but both chris and i did!. The result was both of us getting the rope caught round our foot/ankles and falling headfirst slamming into the pillar below(chris nearly flipped twice, just managing to get his foot out the second time). Emil climbed it and or though he didnt fall he had the rope completely round his ankle as he made the move!.

    I sure you might say, just make sure the rope is in the right spot. BUt it is a grunty move to get into poistion and not one you would want to be fiddling around with the rope!. The end concensus was that the bolt really needs moving to the left approx 30cm, just to put it abit more central to the move.

    For that matter there could even do with an extra one between the 2nd and 3rd, especially with that pillar below!. Anyway food for thought. IMHO the 2nd definately needs moving and consensus on the addition needs to be sought.

    #9212 Reply
    Kate
    Member

    Hi George,

    I don’t remember worrying about that when Neil and I did it, maybe we didn’t put our foot up till we’d made the move, I can’t honestly remember. But I’ll have a look and talk to you about moving the bolt.

    Glad people are getting on it! It’s pretty different climbing for the quarry!

    And credit goes to Neil who figured out how to do it! I just snaffled it from under his nose!

    #9213 Reply
    Logan
    Member

    Did Scoot Scoot yesterday, or did i? Shimmied up hammer and tongs, did a crux reach (for me) up to the undercling, clipped and grabbed the drilled jug, reached into the mini dihedral to a crimp in the crack then despite scott telling me to do a big move to a slopey sidepull i just stood up and crossed to the jug on hammer and tongs had a big rest then traversed up right on some good holds then up to the anchor. So is the jug out of bounds (in which case i regard the route as an eliminate) and also can i use the first drilled jug on hammer and tongs now getting rid of two balance cruxes? (or is hammer and tongs an eliminate too now? If i was a euro with just some lines in a guide it would definetely now be easier to onsight hammer and tongs utilising the pocket. Id give both climbs 25 as they share the same low crux.

    #9214 Reply
    Friend of Numbat
    Member

    Back in my day, that jug on Hammer and Tongs never existed ! It appeared along with the P-bolts one fine day.

    It sounds like you know what you climbed, or didn’t climb.

    #9215 Reply
    Logan
    Member

    Hmmm… now that i think about it… youre right. I dont seem to remember using that jug many years ago on H and T either back in the day (when there was carrots). 2 new jugs on H and T now plus rings. It must be graded about 18 now.

    #9216 Reply
    Mike
    Member

    So let’s see Logan, you climbed about 4m off the route to a jug on another route, then climbed back on to the route and finished it.

    For some reason everyone else has no problem climbing it the way it naturally flows.

    So, I would suggest that you cheated and should harden up next time…

    KTHX

    #9217 Reply
    Logan
    Member

    Haha chipped route that ‘naturally flows’. Good one! In that section you could naturally flow anywhere you like the routes are so melded together. How did you do it Mike?

    #9218 Reply
    Charles
    Member

    Thats ok Logan once I climbed up sweatpea and then traversed to the rest on cardiofunk where there is a killer rest. made sweatpea lots easier but i still put the 27 tick on my 8a.nu profile yo!

    #9219 Reply
    Logan
    Member

    Charles if you can do one cross over move from sweetpea to the jug on cardio then ill give you a 31 tick. Thats all you have to do from the supposed scoot scoot holds to the jug on H and T.

    #9220 Reply
    Eli
    Member

    What do people think of this grade? This is the easiest 26 I have done in Australia so far.

    #9221 Reply
    MArk
    Member

    Did this on the weekend, 25 at most. Solid 24.

    #9222 Reply
    Owen
    Member

    24 with or without H&T jug? Good to see you’ve stopped sandbagging everyone Neil! I’m looking forward to getting on it in December

    #9223 Reply
    Emil
    Member

    Yeah, agreed with Mark. 25 max or perhaps solid 24. Have done it with the jug on H+T but it doesnt make that much difference either way. Avoiding it seems to be the more logical way for a taller person to climb due to the height of the rock-over.

    Great route though! A worthy addition

    #9224 Reply
    MArk
    Member

    I did it with out the jug.

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