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FYI: the fifth bolt on Real Life Ambition at Statham’s quarry popped on the weekend.
It’s now a bit runout, but still looks high enough to avoid a deckout.
‘popped’ … jeepers how?
It was a carrot, they do that.
yep carrots are dodgy as.. just wondering about the mechanics of the bolt failing.. did it pop as a result of a fall? did it just wiggle out with the rope and quickdraw swinging the hanger?
be interesting to find out
Hey Ed, the bolt popped as the climber was lowering down and clipping the rope back into the quickdraw (for another person to toprope).
There is a noticeable bend in the bolt.
thanks, glad no one was hurt
the carrot debate is pretty boring, but its worth noting the routes apparently only 7 years old … puts a new spin on permanent anchors
Went out to Stathams today and replaced the 5th and 1st bolts on real life ambition.
I replaced the 5th for obvious reasons and did intend on replacing all of the 5 main bolts, but my elderly batteries only allowed 2 holes. out of all the bolts the first looked the worst and had slight cracks running from hole.
7 years isnt long and really showcases the short sited, cheap and lame nature of these pathetic bolts. That isnt me trying to start an argument, as i think we have heard them all…..and yes it is really boring!:-(.
It definately is a great route and does deserve decent bolts. I will replace the rest when i sort out the cactus battery situation.
cheers
George
nice work G! it does seem a shame though that you spend your days offfixing other peoples mess’s up ..
yep its a good route and it deserves good bolts and more climbers
Thanks George! 🙂
Well done, mate…You probably noticed that the top (6th?) bolt is glued in (by me) and should be a stonker ie no need to replace. I also put in the loweroffs. The rest of bolts are (were?) carrots by M&J….in smooth, blast-shattered, vertical rock, yes…
Definately, the 6th and loweroffs are totally bomber…amazing what value abit of glue can add!
Well Done George! – What did you replace the bolts with? GIMB’s or P’s? The placing of carrots seem’s to have slowed or stopped completely – This is a huge step forward for WA Climbing.
Sorry, bolts were GIMBS.
