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I freed the long standing project ‘The Great Roof’ at Bluff Knoll yesterday. Started up Coercion then a couple of pitches up a face trending right to the Ladies Changroom ledge, through the roof then easy to the top.
I think the climbing through the roof warrants a solid 26 but this isnt to be taken lightly. It also deserves an R and X grade as it has a large run out (8-10m) off the anchor on suspect rock that will result in a trip to the hospital/morgue if a hold breaks and you fall. The gear through the roof is also the old aid bolts and a rusty pin and coroded nut. The route is amazingly exposed and i think it may feel harder than 26 purely because of how much you over grip on the holds due to nervousness.
So in conclusion its a not to be taken lightly 26 R X.
Have fun playing on this!
Rob vanhaeften got photos so they may turn up somewhere. Owen Davis was also on the ascent.
Also thanks to Dan from Paddy Pallin for providing support and driving us three sleepy climbers home!!
Nice work Logan, great to hear it finally went down!.
Superb work guys. Don’t think too many others will be “playing” on that one!
Wow, awesome. I wish I had the guns&guts to do that…..
A comment on the grading. The route would be graded 26R if you think that a credible fall would most likely cause non-life threatening injuries (sprained ankle, broken hip/leg/achilles….). It would be graded 26X if you think that a credible fall would cause life threatening injuries.
i.e. R is not “runout” but “risky”, X is “extremely risky”….there can be very run out routes with no risk because you will not hit anything (ground, ledge…) ie Mt Cuthbert. That’s how the sustem is mean to work as far as I can tell….I imported it from the US where I climbed for a few months; into the Perth guide and that’s the way it is used there. The yanks also sometimes say 5.11R/X if they cannot decide whether the fall would be deadly but that is being a bit too fine I think….
It recognises the mental dimension of climbing (like the UK E- system), which the traditional Aus Ewbank system does not.
Anyway, blah, blah…..
Thanks for the clarification Ross. Its possible to really do yourself over if you do fall but you may get away with just some busted legs or you may be lucky and be alright (unlikely). The fact is if you do do something even minor you are then stuck half way up Bluff Knoll. I think an R/X grade is apropriate.
Cool Logan,
Along with everyone else, I’m in awe.
Toc.
Now I am just curious why you wrote this the other day? You a bit worried someone else may have snatched your glory?
Logan, 1 Nov 2007
I heard the great roof sucked and was a complete waste of time. Its not worthy of the trip down. Go climb somewhere good like churchmans brook. I wouldnt rush to the roof
I agree, absolutely awesome. Well done Logan, it’s good to hear your climbing so going so strong.
Jeff M,
If you knew my views on Churchmans Brook you would have seen the sarcasm in that meassage straight away 🙂
Logan
No I can see the sarcasm clearly, but can also see you steering the punter (space cadet though he may have been) away from a line you wanted the ffa on.
I thought this forum was to promote climbing and climbers?
Youd think a comment like that as obviously sarcastic as it was would spur a punter on. Do you not agree?
I won’t be doing a second ascent and I will have a huge amount of respect for anyone who does. There won’t be many takers I’m guessing.
Anyway Churchman’s is great if you can stop your car from being broken into.
Cheers,
Toc.
steering others away from a coveted first ascent is a time honoured art form and should be widely encouraged… gotta keep people guessing eh..
anyone facile enough to be tricked by the churchies comment would die on the roof anyway, so the comment may have saved a life no?
oh right so you were using sarcasm to create a reverse psycological effect then? Here’s me thinking that you were just trying to mislead someone from the roof project when really you were using a fantastic old technique to get Idratherbejambing over to give you a bit of a run to see who got it first, wow you are deep
Owen are you saying that if someone is easily influenced or does not have the intelligence to see through a ruse that they will not be a strong climber?
nope… but a meathead of that class would almost certainly take a wrong turn up there and end up in a world of hurt
play nice kids or you wont get any sliced oranges for little-lunch
Jeff M,
Wow, you really seem to have some kind of chip on your shoulder. You need to see whats important here in that there is an awsome route for people to aspire to doing. It seems like you just want to argue a pointless point and stir up the pot. You should try climbing sometime to help you chill out.
hahahahaha this is funny! bit of light relief after venting about the booking systems
Hey Logan,
Top effort mate! Should i be lucky enough in this life time to even do the first move of this climb, do i book through you or do i have to tell DEC??
Mint
At the moment there is a certain amount of sanity in the Stirlings. You don’t book, but there is, (or was), a book you could sign into just to let DEC know who was up there, just in case you didn’t come back. (The idea was you signed out as well). It wasn’t a requirement, just a good idea, left over from the days of yore.
The book is still there. In that sort of environment it is a good idea to say what your plans are in case you get into trouble. Just remember to sign out!
Thanks Logan.
A system that works, doesn’t include “booking”, let’s everybody know what’s going on and is polite to all parties.
The problem with the quarries isn’t how the department needs to deal with climbers, but how the department needs to deal with commercial groups.
For those who want to know I’m definitely supporting Ross being on the committee next year, even this year if he has time.
