Home Forums First Ascents The Monkey and Mo

  • This topic has 7 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 18 years ago by Rod.
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  • #4600 Reply
    Rod
    Guest

    I don’t know if this is an FA or not, didn’t find evidence and if anyone did it hats off to ’em for doing really clean.

    Great splitter, highball boulder but I’m happy for people to repeat it with trad-gear. Located amongst the boulders on the right looking from the top of Monkey Rock, splitter faces South. Crash pads and spotters needed in most of this area, liquid chalk only please. Preferably no bolting on the boulders, I don’t think they need it.

    Personal history is a historical link between myself, the route and the person behind the name…somewhere and someone for whom I care deeply.

    #4601 Reply
    bimco
    Member

    how can people boulder these routes if theres no details on were they are?

    #4602 Reply
    be it where???
    Member

    Yeah dude i concuur with bimco, where the bloody hell is this place?? and how high is it, whats the landing like?? Is it the only problem in the area, is it worth the drive (if far) to go do this extremely aesthetic line (which it must be for the request of liquid chalk only), did you want to grade it (roughly as it may be) in either a v grade or aussie sport grade.

    Cheers

    #4603 Reply
    Ben
    Member

    All I could find is this excert from a Planet Fear article.

    “Denmark is on the way through if you’re heading south from Margaret River. Nearby the town you’ll find Monkey Rock, which is a granite dome with a few worthwhile routes upto about 40m long. On the coast next to a idyllic beach is Elephant Rock, which provides enough quality bouldering for a couple of decent afternoons.”

    http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=25

    Is this the place?

    #4604 Reply
    Rod
    Member

    It’s near Denmark, you can see Monkey Rock from miles away. The location itself is not worth hours of driving but if you happen to be in the region its worth an hour or two.

    It’s high enough that you need spotters and crash pads, probably 4 or 5 metres. The landing on this one is fine, others aren’t. Fall from one problem with a little too much momentum and you’re going for a 100m ride. I found enough varied lines to entertain myself for a full 2 days but it isn’t Bleau or Castle Hill and its a personal taste thing.

    Liquid chalk request: its got nothing to do with a particular line its because I don’t see the point of ruining rock faster than we need to.

    Sorry, I’m not offering a grade for the line.

    #4605 Reply
    John
    Member

    Rod are you deliberately being obtuse? Folks are after directions… After all how can you claim a FA on a vague notion like “you can see your house from here if you ate carrots”?

    #4606 Reply
    gaston
    Member

    Did those carrots you ate happen to be carrot bolts?

    since when did magnesium carbonate dammage rock? Chalk is about as harmless as a blade of grass washing of the rock after a fall of rain

    #4607 Reply
    Rod
    Member

    Ben, our posts crossed, I assumed common knowledge of Monkey Rock especially as I was aware of the Planet Fear article.

    John, The necessary is in the original post as Ben demonstrated and a visit will show. Like I said in the original post, I’m not sure its an FA. I don’t have a guidebook to check.

    However, claimed or unclaimed, the name would be fitting for a nice line in the area. You’ll find the mark of Mo and some of his colleagues in the old tree stumps around Monkey Rock. According to him, early in his career, during logging of the area he and his colleagues put a dirt track onto the top of the rock. Lots of townsfolk came to look at the view for the first time as a consequence, some even cheered. The current walking access track is a partial remnant of the logging tracks put in by these same blokes. As an older man, Mo appeared on the cover of the West Australian 4 July 1982 in less happy circumstances as the timber mill was closed. He still lives an interesting life in Denmark. If you run into him, he likes to pass on knowledge and has a wealth of it that climbers with a nose for exploring will enjoy.

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