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Toodjay re-bolting – CAWA

Home Forums Bolting Toodjay re-bolting

  • This topic has 3 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 16 years ago by Ross.
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  • #6529 Reply
    SCWA
    Guest

    The following route has been re-bolted

    Wounded knee 12m 22R

    both original bolts with homemade hangers have been replaced with:

    2 x SS tru-bolts w/hangers

    cost $12

    Top Anchors have been added above:

    Plaque Boulder

    Ode face: 2 X SS GIMB’s

    West Face: 2 X SS GIMB’s

    Cost:$20

    Cheers for all the good work Mark:)

    #6530 Reply
    Scott
    Member

    Thanks for the good work Mark.

    Does anyone know why Wounded Knee is R rated? Is it due to the old homemade hangers or due to run-out or whatever?

    I guess I am just wondering if it is still considered a risky option despite the new bolts.

    #6531 Reply
    George
    Member

    We were asking ourselves the same question. It doesn’t really warrant one compared to the 2 right most climbs on that face, as they only have 1 bolt on each at about half height. But Wounded Knee is heaps harder, more insecure and stays that way right to the very top(even with 2 bolts).

    But i think the last bolt on wounded knee would just keep you off the ground…..maybe:)if you pitched off at the top.I don’t think the R rating was for the bolt. If they were that bad(which they weren’t)an X might have summed up the potential catastrophic failure. But they were in reasonable condition, even with their homemade nature.

    #6532 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    I gave it the R rating when I did the ’02 guide and it was for the potentially 5m fall onto a 20 year old homemade hanger. Not X as I did not think death/life threatening injury would result (flat landing), just broken leg/hip/arm or so. Now would be just 22.

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